Dangina -- You can try stepping up the TBs to the FF 1.18, but after you get used to them you'll want to try bigger. I've done this all in the past so that's why I'm encouraging you to not waste time with the softer TBs. FF has the 1.24 TBs aside in-stock ($500 a pair?) as they did a recent small production run (I was told by a friend who just spoke with Dick Ross at FF). the stiffer TBs will prevent excessive front dive/lift and keep the car flatter and much more responsive. Use the sway bars and bushings to fine-tune the handling; the doulble-adjustable shocks (QA1, Strange, etc) are the best final touch (Brad's already given us the "reduced height" QA1 part numbers).
My T/A has the the 1.24 TBs, 225/5" fiberglass mono leafs (Flex-A-Form is a great company that worked with me to determine this spec... you ned to know the 4-corners weights of the car with driver as you'd drive/race it mst of the time, especially the rear weights for the leafs), front sway bar is solid 1.24", rear sway bar is solid 1.00", sway bar end link bushings are 50/50 rubber/urethane to my liking, old RED KONI shocks that I've played with the settings and also had them re-valved a little stiffer (fronts set at full-firm, rears at ~2/3 firmness... car handles/races (pylon auto-x and road course) fantastic and is a joy to drive on the highways (currently have 2-sets rims/tires: "cruising" 15x8 minilites with BFG T/A 255-60-15 fronts (~30 psi), 275-60-15 rear (~28 psi)... and "road course HSAX" 16x8 minilites with BFG Comp-2 G-Force 255-50-16 front/rear (cruising at 30f/28r psi, HSAX racing so far best results at ~44f/42r psi).
I also have 16x10 liteweight forged aluminum racing rims with Hoosier A6 275-45-16 f/r tires (40 TW) for the most serious competition (but they're old/hard... need fresh rubber.. and more $$... the G-Force will do for a while/~2-3 years ahead.
