Author Topic: Break-in oil  (Read 3564 times)

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Break-in oil
« Reply #15 on: July 31, 2016 - 03:34:27 PM »
Well now I'm confused  :clueless: My understanding of low-tension rings referred to the oil control ring only. Low tension oil control rings were mainly used on racing applications that developed sustained high cylinder pressures and not recommended for street (muscle car) use due to oil consumption at light load, or at least that's what my local machine shop has said. That makes common sense to me. Here is a tech article from Total Seal, they have a break in period of 2000-3000 miles street driving, one dyno run or a night at the track. Use petroleum based oil (not synthetic) for the break in is recommended by TS. If there is something better out there I would love to know, I have a 512 in the machine shop right know. Thank You!

http://015ef8d.netsolhost.com/TechPage.aspx#trGaplessPistRings
« Last Edit: July 31, 2016 - 03:50:57 PM by 734406pk »
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Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Break-in oil
« Reply #16 on: July 31, 2016 - 05:07:23 PM »
This discusses low tensions rings of today vs rings from a few years ago.    http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/the-chi-of-free-horsepower/

Another gibbs article that discusses break in one paragraph   http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/dont-fall-for-the-myths/

Here is the ol' standby article that gets quoted a lot.  It's strange there are a lot of bike engine articles that follow this philosophy   http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Some of the quicker guys I used to hang out with advocated taking the car out as soon  as timing was set, and water was up to temperature and make a pass at half throttle, then one at 3/4 throttle, and one more wide open and then the engine was race ready.

That is somewhat analogous to this technique     https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php

My experience is that after a couple of dyno runs, the power output changes very little on subsequent runs on a properly built engine.  Properly built is the key pair of words LOL    That means the cylinder walls were properly honed so that the surface does not consist of a bunch of folded over "triangle" tips.  In other words, the cylinder walls retain oil but they don't cut the surface off the ring face.

It also means that rings gaps are set appropriately and piston to wall clearance is such that the pistons don't rock more than required in the rings but are not so tight that they expand and force the rings to cut the walls to make their own clearance.

We dump the break in oil out to get rid of any tiny metal bits that are circulating in the system as well as to reduce the chance of plugging up the filter media.

Of course, we all know that we cannot use synthetic oil in a new engine because it is too slick and won't allow the engine to break in  (scarcasm)    That can only be done on the GM assembly line, Porsche, Mercedes, etc that have magicians assemble their engines and we all know just how much effort they go to to break in engines before we buy the car.  (more sarcasm)  :D

In the sixties, Mopar told us to drive the car easily for the first thousand or so miles to insure good engine life and low oil consumption.  Actually, I don't know anyone that followed that advice, but, the intent was not to make more power.   I don't remember ever having to add oil before a scheduled change.

Today, manufacturing tolerances  are more precise, materials are better, and science has evolved.    I have heard of a few that claimed their gas mileage got better after a few thousand miles but that is probably hard to prove because we don't have controlled environments to assure apples are apples.

One thing I do know is that it takes a lot less effort to turn a modern engine over with a torque wrench on the stand than it used to and the main component of drag is from the piston rings....as one of those articles mentioned all the rings are lower tension/drag than they used to be even 20 years ago-but if the machine shop screws up the cylinder walls, all is for nothing.

This has nothing to do with break in but it does point out some of the variables involved  in ring selection   http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/engine-tech-understanding-piston-ring-tension/
« Last Edit: July 31, 2016 - 05:21:13 PM by Strawdawg »

Offline 734406pk

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Re: Break-in oil
« Reply #17 on: July 31, 2016 - 05:22:48 PM »
Great Articles! Thanks for posting strawdawg! :2thumbs:
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive

Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Break-in oil
« Reply #18 on: July 31, 2016 - 05:54:55 PM »

Don't like Joe Gibbs or just don't like to use break in oil with a roller valvetrain?

If you believe Joe Gibbs, take it out now. :)  Anyway, with a roller cam, there was a minimum of metal to metal contacts to break in anyway.
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Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Break-in oil
« Reply #19 on: July 31, 2016 - 06:10:12 PM »
Don't like Joe Gibbs or just don't like to use break in oil with a roller valvetrain?

must have not written that very well. I like Joe Gibbs and I think it is completely pointless to use break in oil in a roller valve train as long as you use good oil with normal amounts of zinc in it.  His site gives you plenty of reasons not to leave it in the engine after break in no matter the type of engine. :)

I should have said, if you believe Joe Gibbs, or more precisely his oil guy