driver side inner tie rod hits torsion bar 71 cuda

[culp71]

hey all,
so working under a 71 cuda, I noticed the very inner top corner of the driver side inner tie rod end was touching the torsion bar?
not with a ton of pressure but enough to scuff some paint!!?!?!?!

all suspension and like items have been replaced and or rebuilt.
all parts have been reinstalled in same orientation as they where removed.
but car was very rough when I got it and may had been previously "worked" on and reassembled wrong
any insight on where to start to pinpoint the cause for this problem.

?possibly something that is rotated or flipped around?

thanks

[anlauto]

What pitman arm are you using ?

[burdar]

Also, are you sure the K-member is original to the car?  Does the K-member have a "coin" welded on the front side with a part # stamped into it?  1970 and back B-body K-members have a different steering box angle but will physically bolt up to an E-body. 

I've seen some people say that their E-bodies came from the factory with shims between the steering box and the K-member.  A little change in box angle with a shim, would add up to a larger change at the inner tie rod.

[culp71]

stock ps box donor from a 1970 barracuda , just like this one...

[culp71]

the K member is a donor ,uncertain as to what it came from, was told it was correct for e body cuda...it does have a "coin" welded on front with # stamped into it....what should this # be to be compatible?
 
I can easily add shims to box, it did not have any when I removed it but I'm sure I was not the first to take it off.
your saying it may had hade shims from the factory, if my K member is correct, that might be the way to go....
 

[burdar]

The # on the coin represents the last two digits of the K-member part #.  A 71 E-body should have a "74" stamped on the coin.

[culp71]

I will check what # my coin has tonight,
anything else that is common that could cause this that I should check while I'm under there?

[HP2]

 Tolerance stack up. Put shims under the upper steering box bolts to shim pitman arm down away from t-bars. Not uncommon, but not always seen during initial factory assembly. Usually takes time and settling/flex  of  components to highlight problem or a swap to thicker t-bars and fast ratio arms, as well as a rebuild with new suspension parts that can also highlight interference.

[culp71]

my K-member does have this "coin" tack welded to the front but there is no # on it,
I sandblasted everything and did not find any markings. because of this I added shims to the top bolts of the steering box and was able to gain some throw. pitman no longer hits the torsion bar but it only sits about 1/16 inch from it. everything else is new...new torsion bars, lca, pivot arm, bushings, uca, ball joint, new tie rods, inner and outer. everything.
Is it possible that the pitman arm off of box is bent? you mentioned changing to a "quick ratio" pitman arm, would this help with clearance, are they longer or bent a different angle?, or allow me to remove the shims.

Is there another way to identify if this is the correct k member?

[burdar]

I wonder if the coin was welded on upside down?

[culp71]

maybe...the more I look at everything the more I wonder if the inner tie rod connector is too tall or the wrong style.
if the tie rod (ball stud) end wasn't so tall, it would give e plenty of Clearance, and not require any shimming of the box.
top is what is on the car, new moog I believe
bottom pic is a pic of an original.
the difference in height is unmistakable.

anyone know where one can buy a new original style like this?