Author Topic: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom  (Read 1309 times)

Offline dfrazz

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Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« on: October 28, 2016 - 01:13:14 PM »
I am about to change out a 440 for a 505 stroker and would like to attempt to do it from the bottom instead of removing the hood and pulling the engine from the top.  I will have access to 2-post lift so this should help.  This will be my first time doing this, so can anyone provide steps on:

- what to remove to pull the engine/trans (833 4 speed)
- what all can you pre-assemble on the k-member before putting engine back in
- what do you need to wait to install until the engine is back in the car
- any gotchas or helpful tips
- pictures are worth a thousand words so bring em on

Thanks for your help!




Offline 1 Wild R/T

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2016 - 01:29:50 PM »
Does it have headers?
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Offline 70chall440

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2016 - 01:38:03 PM »
You can drop and installed the engine and trans as one unit. You will need something to lower the car onto that still allows access under the car when you remove the 4 K frame bolts and trans cross member bolts. Don't forget about the brake lines.... I used a motorcycle lift I got from Harbor Freight and it worked great; designed for the weight, has wheels, is long enough and can be raised and/or lowered. You can always sell it in craigslist afterwards and recoup some money.

I did this for my Cuda and have to say it was by far the easiest install I have ever done, in fact I essentially did it by myself (I have a 2 post lift); lower the car slowly, move the engine/trans around slightly to ensure it is going where it should; get it close, use the MC lift to apply upward pressure and get the bolts in. Use a small scissor jack to raise the trans and get the cross member bolts in. lift the car, remove the MC lift; connect everything.
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Offline burdar

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2016 - 01:45:36 PM »
Disconnect the lower ball joint from the spindle.  Leave the spindle connected to the upper control arm.  That way, you don't have to mess with brake lines.  You can leave all that stuff connected...just let them hang.

You can pretty much have the entire engine assembled before dropping the body back down.  That's how the factory did it...so can you.  The only thing that might get tight is the accessories.  Depending on how far the alternator sticks out, it might get close to the frame rail.  Just leave the belt loose and tighten it later.



« Last Edit: October 28, 2016 - 01:50:02 PM by burdar »

Offline anlauto

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2016 - 02:53:45 PM »
I put every single thing you can on the assembly before it goes in....wiring, hoses, etc...
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Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #5 on: October 28, 2016 - 03:02:38 PM »
I put every single thing you can on the assembly before it goes in....wiring, hoses, etc...

 :iagree:

Even put fans, power steering, water pump, starter, headers, all of it. So much easier when out of the car.

Pull the torsion bars, 4 Kmember bolts, detach brake lines, cross member, driveshaft, wiring harness from the bulkhead, hoses, etc and pull away!
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Offline anlauto

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #6 on: October 28, 2016 - 03:09:19 PM »
The one I did on Tuesday I left the air cleaner on even... :P
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Offline dfrazz

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2016 - 05:33:09 PM »
Thanks guys.  Yes I will have headers and install them first.  Do I need the radiator out of the car?  If you put the fan on first, how do you get the shroud on (stock fan/shroud/radiator?  Also, this is on my Charger so do I have to disconnect the big shifter?


I don't have a dolly so the plan was:
- to drop k-member on 5 jack stands (4 on the k-member and 1 on the trans mount)
- disconnect everything, thinking of leaving top shock bolt in and disconnect just the lower ball joint and leave the spindle/caliper hanging as burdar mentioned
- raise the car up and out of the way
- strip the current 440 of everything I need (pulleys, power steering pump, etc)
- remove the 440
- mount up the 505
- attach everything back on
- possibly replace any bushings, belts, hoses that need it
- drop car back down - in theory the car and k-member have not moved so it should slide right back on
- re-attach bolts, ball joint, driveshaft, etc
- fire and tune it up
« Last Edit: October 28, 2016 - 05:45:14 PM by dfrazz »

Offline burdar

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #8 on: October 28, 2016 - 09:22:00 PM »
The rad should be removed first.  Since you are doing it on a hoist and can go straight down, you MIGHT be able to leave it in but I wouldn't.  During reassembly, you can hang the shroud over the fan before you drop the radiator down into place.

Offline 1 Wild R/T

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #9 on: October 28, 2016 - 09:46:27 PM »
The rad should be removed first.  Since you are doing it on a hoist and can go straight down, you MIGHT be able to leave it in but I wouldn't.  During reassembly, you can hang the shroud over the fan before you drop the radiator down into place.

I agree, you could sneak it past but a new core costs $400 or more these days & R&Ring a radiator is pretty quick & easy since the radiator hoses are clearly gonna be disconnected already... Just loosen the lower bolts they are slotted, remove the two upper bolts....
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Offline drewcrane

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #10 on: October 29, 2016 - 01:35:18 AM »
if you want help PM me  :thumbsup:

Offline dfrazz

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Re: Swapping an Engine Out From the Bottom
« Reply #11 on: October 29, 2016 - 11:36:42 AM »
if you want help PM me  :thumbsup:

Ok, will remove the rad.  Thanks Drew for the offer, I will keep you in mind.