Header Bolt Question W/Pics

[daveh]

Hey guys,

I got some gifts for the holidays and received 2 sets of header bolts for the 340.  (see below)  My question is that both sets are for the small block 340. However, one set of bolts are longer than the other.  I would like to use the studs but I'm not sure if they will go all the way into the water jacket at each end of the head.  The ones that get the thread sealer. What are your opinions?  Thanks

[Cudakiller70]

I personally don't have experience with studs, but I think it'll be fine with the studs. I would just check to see how far in the stud goes till the threads start to grab hopefully right at the face of the exhaust otherwise the stud could be buried in too deep. Keep in mind how thick your header flange, header gasket and room for nut to ensure there's enough thread sticking out. For the water jacket studs, use a good high temp sealer, the studs plug the hole and it just needs not to leak water.

Thread sealer suggestions, I'm sure there are others
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=114532.0

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I think you're going to have a very hard time installing the headers if you aren't pulling the engine out of the car with studs. I'm not even sure you can make those fit, you need the clearance.


Disclaimer: it's been a few years since I put headers in a small block Ebody.

Those bolts are for the intake manifold and will not work on headers. Header bolts will be about 3/4"-1" long at most.

[cudabob496]

don't use studs, major pain.

on my 440, I used ARP bolts that were about 3/8 inch longer than stock,
for better grip and sealing.

[daveh]

A lot of people say use the studs because they grip and wont loosen as easily in the water jacket.  The engine is on stand and I just want to do it once and not mess with them when they are in the car. 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

A lot of people say use the studs because they grip and wont loosen as easily in the water jacket.  The engine is on stand and I just want to do it once and not mess with them when they are in the car.

You've been warned!

Once they are in the car it will be difficult to work with if you have you pull them for any service or gasket change.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[daveh]

So what quality header bolts do you guys recommend (part numbers please)?  I don't want something that's going to rust.  Thanks

[HP2]

IIRC, and I could be wrong, factory heads had studs. These are removed when going to headers because 1st- installing them over studs is major hassle when also negotiating steering box, motor mounts, oil filters, k frames and drag links, and 2 - studs are long enough to cause interference with some tubes with a tight radius and this length will interfere with the tube to such a degree to prevent the flange from getting close enough to the face of the port to seal.

With that said, I have left studs in place and used them with headers, but they required some customization and this was only in a truck engine bay where I had a lot of room.

[73440]

http://store.stage8.com/p/8935-sb-mopar-header-12pt

[cudabob496]

put bolts in with white plumbers pipe sealant. Wont leak.
I had leaking bolt once, put a little Bars-Leak Liguid Aluminum
in my coolant, and for 10 yrs has not leaked.

[Cudakiller70]

Are your headers full length tube?
Also maybe use some red high temp silicone on both sides of header gaskets, recommended by TTI.

http://www.ttiexhaust.com/Category-MiscComponents/PermatexSealer.jpg

[daveh]

I am using TTI headers with the Remflex gaskets.

[dodj]

You've been warned!

X2
You will be happy with studs IF you never have to touch your engine after installation.........

If you ever have a header gasket leak, steering box issue etc, you will wish you had never used studs.

[Cudakiller70]

I agree all exhaust bolts enter the water jacket , & pulling any of them is similar to removing a drain plug , this is why the factory used studs & even with headers I prefer to retain the studs

try installing the studs thru the headers just like they were bolts

Both from this thread about 440, I know you have a 340.  http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=95885.0

[KillerBee]

I can't speak for small blocks but I've used studs on all my big block engines for years.

The Mr. Gasket part number 3415 is a specialty step down stud with 3/8-16 threads on one side to go into the head and smaller 1/4-28 threads on the other side for clearance.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/mrg-3415/overview/

I've used them on steel big block heads with a little pipe sealer on the threads and both Edelbrock and Stealth aluminum heads.
I've used Hooker, Headman and TTI headers with no issues or leaks.

Of course Mr. Gasket has discontinued making the 3415 studs and they are hard to find so I bought a few extra sets and now use a mixture of the Mr. Gasket step studs and Dorman stock type where clearance isn't an issue.
Actually the  smaller step studs are only needed on a couple spots on both sides of the engine where the header pipes make a regular stud and nut a tight fit. The larger Dorman studs work fine every place else.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/rnb-675-098/overview/

I've been running this setup on my 440 engines in my E-bodies for many years and never have had any issue with engine install or fitment or coolant leaks and the smaller/shorter step studs allows the header to easily pull off the engine even when installed in the car.