Lulurocks:
Sounds like a faulty switch. Did you bench test it with the pigtail connected to make sure it was good before it in the car? NO, as i didnt think that would matter without the tranny to activate the switch.
Two tests to proof out the car wiring : with nss harness disconnected
If you have ground the. G terminal on the relay will it try to start? This will proof out the Maybe a bad wire or connection from center pin to relay
Yes, with direct ground to the G terminal on the relay, car starts...
If you have the key in the run position and you jump the two outer pins , firewall bulkhead 7,8 do the reverse lights come on. Yes, jumping 7 & 8 causes the reverse lights to come on when key in run.
If you have the key on in the run position do you have 12 volts at bulkhead wire 8 , if not check fuse 5 as well. Yes, I have powern when key on
Are your switch test results with the 3 pin pigtail connected to the switch and not connected to the car wiring. ? I installed the new switch and put on the 3 wire pigtail, without connecting the three wires to the bulkhead connector or the starter relay. I then tested the middle wire for continuity to the tranny and when in Park and Neutral had continuity. Next I tested the two outer wires for continuity and in Park NO, in Reverse YES Neutral NO and i didn't try any further. I then ran a wire from the middle wire to the relay. and the two outer to posts 7 & 8 connector to bulkhead. Now when I try to start any lights that were on (such as my aftermarket tach wired to the accessory post on the fuse block, they dim low, and no starter. I think that it is either a bad switch...ie. continuity but not enough to carry any amperage for the starter relay... and unfortunately, the reverse lights are on when in drive. So either bad switch and/or simply bad adjustment on the shifter linkage. I noticed that I cant pull the selector the whole way back to lock in 1'st.. Think Ill try to adjust the linkage and try again.
« Last Edit: Today at 10:17:28 AM by lulurocks »