Boiling fuel and intake swap

[rattlesnake]

Finally figured out the cuda is boiling the fuel after long drives on hot days. I currently am running a Wiend team G aluminum manifold with a Holley 850 carb. I was told by RPM racing in Indianapolis the motor is heat sinking after shut-down causing fuel to boil in the carb, which causes hard re-start. They said I need a special type of spacer between the carb and intake which does not transfer heat from the intake to the carb. The problem is with the mid rise intake I don't have room for a spacer so I need to change the intake to free up some space. Does anyone have any suggestions for a low rise single plane intake for a moderately modified 440? It has 10:1 compression, comp cams thumper cam hydraulic lifters, 2" headers, 3500 stall. If any more info is needed I can give it. Suggestions will be appreciated.

[cudabob496]

I had 3/8 inch milled off my M1 single plane to fit spacer.
Insulate your fuel lines. Route them away from heat.

Make a heat shield for your carb.

[cudabob496]

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=118625.msg1161984#msg1161984

[Racer57]

I taped 2 layers of Reflextic together and placed it under my 383s intake on top of the valley pan and it helped.

[dodj]

I don't know if it is a shorter manifold than the Weiand, but I like my Holley Street Dominator single plane. I bought it after several recommendations from forum members. Give it a look.

[73restomod]

They make heat insulating gaskets for carbs they cost about 25 bucks are a 1/4 inch thick and work
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/edelbrock-performer-series-heat-insulator-gaskets-9265/3442705-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=3442705-P&iv_=__iv_p_1_a_837215191_g_42061545839_w_pla-318675963835_h_9007100_ii__d_c_v__n_g_x_pla_y_6201684_f_online_o_3442705-P_z_US_i_en_j_318675963835_s__vi__&utm_source=ACQ&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_content=shoppingcampaigns&gclid=CLnwhIaKt9QCFdaFswode3QMBA

this should fix your woes quickly...

[cudabob496]

vent engine compartment to keep it cooler. Place sheet metal shields
over exhaust manifolds. Coatings on headers help a lot. Coat inside and outside
of header.

[rattlesnake]

Update for you fellas that are interested. I opted to change my high rise team G intake to a torker ll to gain hood clearance and bought a carb cool kit from quick fuel, which consisted of a heat shield and a non-heat transferring spacer. I switched the thermostat from a 180 to a 160. The carb cool kit did the trick. The damn car still wants to run 180 degrees but no more boiling fuel for now. Just wish I could keep the engine a little cooler.

[burdar]

180 degrees is the minimum safe temp for an engine IMO.  Any cooler and you accelerate the wear.  A thermostat does NOT control the high side of the system.  The thermostat only controls the minimum temp the engine will run at.  If an engine wants to run at 200 degrees, it's going to run at 200 degrees with a 180 or a 160.  The thermostat has no effect on maximum temp.

The factory thermostat was a 195 I believe.

[cudabob496]

ya, go back to a 180 thermo, or potential to damage engine, especially when its cool or cold outside

[cudabob496]

if you have aluminum heads, you want to be up to 190 to 200, to make max power,
due to aluminum removing too much heat from combustion chamber.

[734406pk]

Update for you fellas that are interested. I opted to change my high rise team G intake to a torker ll to gain hood clearance and bought a carb cool kit from quick fuel, which consisted of a heat shield and a non-heat transferring spacer. I switched the thermostat from a 180 to a 160. The carb cool kit did the trick. The damn car still wants to run 180 degrees but no more boiling fuel for now. Just wish I could keep the engine a little cooler.

Glad to hear the heat insulating spacer has worked in solving the fuel boil issue! 160 deg may not be possible due to ambient temp etc. I would stick with 180 degree t-stat IMO.