OWM Water Valve Modification

[cv70chall]

I currently have the 1970 dated water/ heater valve and of course, the clay valves don't work well and I get water bypassing them- resulting in hot air coming out of my A/C vents. I have the newer model, but would like to keep the factory dated one.
Has anyone modified the valve so it's basically a heater bypass? Maybe sealing the tube openings on the firewall side of the valve? I want to bypass the heater core- I'm in Florida and will never use it. This way, it looks factory, still has all four hoses attached, but the water is diverted back to he engine inside the valve.

Anyone done this?

[cudabob496]

I would just block flow coming to and from the water pump housing. There should
be a creative way to do that and still look stock.

[burdar]

My uncle bought a 74 Dart Sport a few years ago.  The heat wasn't working so he took it in and had it looked at.  They found a bolt shoved into one of the heater hoses.  The valve on that car had gone bad and that was somebodies solution.  Maybe a large ball bearing would work in your situation?  Large enough so it wouldn't go through the valve?

[cudabob496]

My uncle bought a 74 Dart Sport a few years ago.  The heat wasn't working so he took it in and had it looked at.  They found a bolt shoved into one of the heater hoses.  The valve on that car had gone bad and that was somebodies solution.  Maybe a large ball bearing would work in your situation?  Large enough so it wouldn't go through the valve?

you can make a plug by sawing off part of a large bolt, stick it in the hose,
and secure it with a hose clamp.  Paint the clamp black, and won't notice it.

or you can put brass plugs in the water pump housing holes.

[1 Wild R/T]

Stuff Marbles in the hoses.... They are just over 5/8" in diameter, heat doesn't effect them.... Done.....

[cv70chall]

In the "cold position" the valve is technically shut, so you're saying to place marbles in the two hoses on the firewall side right? I would have to move the AC control over to HEAT in order for the valve to remain open.
So maybe I am not following.
The valve has to be open for the water to be diverted right?

[1 Wild R/T]

No the water can be plugged, I'd put the marbles on the engine side....

[cudabob496]

plug the two holes in the water pump housing with brass plugs, and remove the hoses.
Engine compartment looks cleaner.

[jason340]

A friend of mine used two ball bearings in his heater hoses.

[cv70chall]

Forgive me, but you still want the water to be able to exit and re-enter the engine right? So, I would think you would want to divert it out of one hose and back into the return, yes?

[1 Wild R/T]

Nope... The water pump isn't positive displacement, it will only move as much water as it can, it won't over pressurize the system it will simply not move the amount of water that normally flows through the heater...

[cv70chall]

But, I can't just block both the supply and return, right?
I have to allow the water to loop back into the engine right?

Otherwise, I can just "block both pipes" and leave the valve hooked up for looks?

[burdar]

Block both hoses at the water valve.  Water won't flow through the heater core this way.  The hoses do NOT have to be looped together.  Just put ball bearings or marbles in the hose to block the water entering the heater core.  That's it.

[cudabob496]

After removing hoses, I blew out the heater, so water would not
sit in there and rust components.