Power to non-power brake conversion

[Kilrcuda]

I have 71 340 cuda, right now it has power brakes with discs in the front and drums out back. I want to convert it to non-power for now and later on discs in the rear(still non-power). To do this can I just take the power booster out and put in the mopar performance manual brake booster? do I have to add a proportioning valve or can I use the one that is there?

[Chryco Psycho]

you can remove the booster & hook the master up to the pedal to get manual brakes & you don`t have to change proportioning valves as the brake bias remains the same  

[Kilrcuda]

Thanks for the advice, I might get one of the light weight master cylinders. I went to Mopar atlantic nationals this weekend and saw alot of quick mopars (like there is any other kind) I noticed that all the guys running high lift high duration cams were running manual brakes and didn't really complain about it. So I guess I know my next project . Again Thanks

[Chryco Psycho]

One of the members on moparts makes an adapter to use the new alum masters , personally I like manual brakes , I think Kekoakeakane is running one of them

[Kilrcuda]

I never had a car with manual brakes, I know the braking distance will be longer. But is the car a bear to stop? I'm also going to add rear discs over the winter so that might help, because right now the car will stop it is just when you are moving the car around that there is no vaccum to run the brakes. That 590 mech. cam from mopar sounds mean runs meaner but kills vaccum, thats ok a small price to pay to have a killer small block.

[dr_dodge]

I am seriously considering a dual master cylinder balance bar setup like we,ve run in dirt track cars
they,re light (loose a bunch of the factory pedal stuff), reliable, have plenty of stopping power with drums or 4 discs and easily adjustable.  We've done the adjustable proportion valve before, but were not happy with it
at times it seamed inconsistant  just pick up a circle track mag and there are tons of suppliers for those (and other nifty brake stuff).  disadvantage not simple bolt on

dr

[MoparMan]

I own a '70 Challanger R/T, a '69 Dart (360), a '71 Duster 340 and a '68 Fury Conv. All 4 have manual brakes. I haven't driven the Challenger as it's under restoration right now, but the other 3 cars brakes work great. I love the feel of Chrysler manual brakes. You can modulate the brake as required, with total confidence.
My Dart has disc brakes on the front and I'm very happy with those.
The Chrysler power brakes, which I've used on other cars, are overkill. Too touchy. Too grabby. No "road feel".

[ragtopdodge]

I believe the cylinder bore diameter will dictate the amount of pressure req'd to apply the brakes.

Biggere bore, more feel you'd get, alone w/more pedal effort I believe.

I plan on doing this, w/an adapter plate from AR Engineering:
http://www.arengineering.com/




Also, some more info:
http://www.moparts.com/ub/ubb/Forum25/HTML/000014.html

http://www.moparts.com/ub/ubb/Forum26/HTML/000001.html