OK, first thing is to make sure the adjusting bolt is backed off all the way on the torsion bar.NO load on the bar!
You need to clamp something on the bar, then drive it rearward with a hammer. (make sure the clip is out) The trick here is to NOT mark up the bar with whatever you clamp to it. They sell a torsion bar removal tool that will clamp to the bar without gouging it. If you do mark up the bar, you'll need to file the marks off so there are no sharp edges left. If you dont, this sharp edge will cause a stress riser in the bar, and it WILL break (at probably the most inopertune time) Think about how this suspension works, there is a lot of "Torsion" on that bar as it twists to take the load of the suspension and car. Any weak point in that bar will be revealed as a crack.
The lower control arm bushings are a bitc%...you can burn the rubber out with a torch.Some of the polygraphite bushings reuse the outer shell of the old bushing if i remember correctly, check your directions. If you are going the stock route, you'll have to chisel out the outer shell from the old bushing.
The strut rod comes out with some finess, just got to work at it. the bushing should come out fairly easy....sometimes you just have to use some brute strength methods on these parts, they often have been in place for DECADES.
