thecountmc:
Here is the info I promissed you, albeit, 3 days late:
Ben Snobar's Northwest Performance. 12636 Waddell Creek Rd, Olypia, WA 98512. (360) 943-6633. Or you can visit their web site at
www.shakerhood.com or e-mail them at
nwperf@nwlink.com.
The measurments you need are as follows, and they are the distances from the
outer edge of the trim ring to the specified outer edge of the hood:
1) 12 1/2 inches. Back of trim ring to back hood edge.
2) 15 3/4 inches. Front of trim ring to front hood edge.
3) 14 inches. From right or left edge of trim ring to right or left edge of hood.
DO NOT CUT ON THE DIMENSIONS GIVEN ABOVE!!!! Your actual cuts should be about 1 inch to 1-1/4 inches
inside the above deminsions. The above dimensions only tell you where the outside edges of the trim ring fall in relation to the outer edges of the hood. There is a lip or a recesion on the underside of the trim ring. This lip/recesion of the trim ring will sit on this "extra" 1 1/4 inches of metal; it is also where the trim ring studs poke through to bolt the ring to your hood.
Also, dimension #3 is not
that critical and varies (because the sides of the trim ring is not straight). What you are really trying to do with dimension #3 is get the trim ring centered on the hood. So if you get, say, 14 inches on the left side (with your measuring tape, lets say, 26 inches back from the left front hood corner), you should go to the exact opposite side of the trim ring (this time 26 inches from the
right front hood corner) and take your right side measurement. If you've centered the ring properly, your right side measurement will match your left side measurement. By the way, it helps to flip the trim ring over when taking your measurements; the studs protruding from the bottom of the trim ring don't allow you to get a good measurement if it's not flipped over.
I would strongly recomend getting, at the least, the "small" kit from Ben Snobar. This includes the trim ring, the underhood brace, and a flanging Vice-Grip tool (flanges that above mentioned 1-1/4 inches of "extra" sheetmetal so the trim ring sits flush to the hood). This kit costs $700 plus shipping. Don't try to do the hood without using the underhood bracing; the hood will buckle without the brace if you go to close it. The underhood bracing's inner hole also gives you another reference of where the hood should be cut.
Take your time and be super careful before you cut anything. Measure and re-measure, and look at how everything would be bolted together before you cut. I found that the brace needed some triming, especially where the opening meets the trim ring, before I was ready to cut. I also had to lightly file the jaws of the flanging Vice-Grip tool so it would make a smooth flange. Test yours on some scrap flat sheet metal before screwing up your flat hood.
I know my response, as usual, was lengthy. But I want you to know what your getting into and how to do it correctly. I was only able to do my hood from some very helpful people who took the time to give
me instructions and measurements (thank you Sheila and Danny!!). I hope this helps and feel free to post me back if you have questions.
Larry
P.S. I hope you have a 'cuda/Barracuda, because that is what these measurements are for. They could very well be different if you have a Challenger.
P.S.S If anybody was wondering, a stock, flat 1971 Barracuda steel hood weighs 66 pounds!
