Help! I'm stuck on bleeding the brakes.......

[bs549]

I've got a 74 Cuda with disks on the front, drums on the back.  I just finished rebuilding both rear drums completely (new shoes, brake cylinders and hardware) and now cannot get brakes to bleed.

Here's how I'm trying to bleed them....my assistant pumps the brake pedal 3 times, then applies a steady pressure to the pedal...I crack open the right rear (and i've tried with the left rear as well) bleeder screw with a flexable hose attached, but no fluid comes out.  Additionally, the brake pedal does not go down when the bleeder screw is open.

Since this is the first time I've ever bleed brakes on a Mopar, I know I must be missing a step.

Any help would be appreciated!  Thanks!

[chevyconvert]

Sounds like you're doing it right, but I don't know why the pedal doesn't go down/fluid doesn't come out.
If you remove the bleeder completely is there any fluid?
I'm assuming the master cylinder is full.....?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Interesting. 

  In reality, you should just have to pump the pedal twice, and brake fluid will be gushing out. Just a thought here, did you let the master cylinder go dry? Maybe that needs bled first.  I'm just thinking it could be full of air and nothing is flowing down the brake line.

  Mike

[Swedefish]

Maybe a long shot but does it feel like a firm stop to the pedal? On my brake cylinder there is a screw underneath the cylinder that serves as a stop screw for the piston, thinking that it may cause probs. 
Good luck 

[ShelbyDogg]

If you disconnect the line from the wheel cylinder, does it run out? Mopars bleed the same way everything else bleeds.  I don't even Pump/Pressure blead anymore. I just let it run with clear hose into a bottle till all the bubbles and funny color is gone. It all seems to run out down there when there is a leak, with gravity
Rob

[heminut]

Just a thought, but check the simplest things first. If you are using the old wheel cylinders pull the bleeder valves out and clean the holes out with a piece of wire. I've seen these holes plugged up with so much crud that no amount of pressure on the brake pedal could get anything through them. If they are really bad you may need to use a small drill bit to clean the crud out.

[Mopar73340]

 

[FY1 RT SE]

Because the way the 72-74 P-Valves were mounted they required a special proceedure to bleed them.

[Hemi Challenger]

Don't you need two people to Bleed the brake line  and did you take the plasic plug out of the wheel cylinder, and keep filling the Resivor up do not let that go dry, and make sure you put the cap back on the Master cylinder

[bs549]

The rear wheel cylinders (and one of the rear brake lines) were replaced as part of the brake rebuild.  I was reading somewhere that maybe my problem has to do with a metering/proportional valve and that there is a special way required to bleed the brakes.    Has anyone heard of how to bleed the brakes with this valve in place?

Thanks

[FY1 RT SE]

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