360 build

[RAD1229]

  OK fellas,

  Its been a while since I have posted....work....wedding....not much car time lately.  Thats about to change, I am looking to build this 360 thats been sittin around in the shop.  I found a set of magnum heads and I am hoping I can make it all work out.  I just have a few questions

  (360) I am going to take the block .030 over to make sure its good and clean. I am planning to use the KB107030 piston with the stock rods.  First question...I calculate that if I have the block taken down .021 it wll be zeroed...is this correct??  I may just have them take .010 to have some room to work??  It might not effect my CR much if I leave the block?  Just trying to get close to 10:1    Is there a good place to help me calculate the pushrod length for this application (magnum heads)?

  This engine will mate to my 727 w/2000 stall.  This brings me to the cam.. I don't want to go too big and loose the bottom end.  I was thinking a stock 340 grind..something in the .444 range?

Any input will help, as this is as from scratch as I have started any engine build, and I may be way off base.

-RAD

[tactransman]

Have you run this stall converter already? A 2000 RPM stall is not much , you are not going to get much of a performace gain with a "true" 2000 RPM stall converter. If you have already used it and it felt OK than that is fine, I just wanted to give you a heads up if you haven't.

[tactransman]

RAD1229 , Have you checked out this link yet?
http://www.moparts.com/Tech/Archive/smallblock/7.html

[Chryco Psycho]

I would use a K 56 Engle cam , not sure what the pushrod lenght would be + any milling will affect it , Mopar blocks are generally tall so in a perfect world .021 would take you to zero But probably it will be closer to .030 to get zeroed

[Follicly Challenged]

Best method to ascertain how close to "0" deck you are, is still to mock the engine up prior to final wash and prep, then Mill the block "equal & square" from the mains to where you want it for deck clearance.

It's nice if your shop has a "BHJ Block True" or similar fixture attached on their surfacing machine, to actually correct the 90 degree angle at the same time as the deck ht.

Mopar blocks are unfortuneately "the worst" in that area, especially after a million thermal cycles in 100,000 miles.

You may also wish to check out some Lunati "voodoo" series cams also. The smaller stuff works awesome, but not sure if they still carry them in the catalog.