Author Topic: Nitro RC car  (Read 3394 times)

Offline Ravage

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 552
  • 1974 318 'Cuda
Nitro RC car
« on: June 23, 2006 - 08:44:33 PM »
I been thinking about buying a fuel powered RC car for some time now and I just rolled all my lose change and came up with $286  :bananasmi  good time to buy  ;D Only problem is I don't know ANYTHING about nitro cars ,nor do I know anyone that knows anything about them.All these car guys here someone has to have some input on this.One that caught my eye is http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXDLL770&P=V#tech  is this a good one? Do you know of a better deal?
"I flipped off a box of kittens once..." (Tycho on being evil)




Offline JRoss22

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 458
  • Member Since 05/08/2005
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2006 - 10:16:42 PM »
Well its been a while since I have been into this hobby but I would say try and go with something by HPI very well known.. Alot of good talk about them in all the RC magazines I have at my house.... But if thats the one you want go with it looks to be a really good deal.. I remember when I bought an electic kit 4x4 it cost around $350 so the price youd be paying for the Duratrax is an awesome deal and jump on it if you want it... Although I kinda like building the cars myself more fun and you appreciate them more... :2cents:

Offline Street_Challenged73

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8826
  • '73 FC-7 Challenger..Member since October 20, 2002
    • My '73 Challenger Restoration Page
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2006 - 11:05:25 PM »
That looks like a nice setup!  I have a battery-powered Tamiya 4x4 with a Ram body on it, but I busted up the gears and front steering and haven't fixed it yet. :misbehaving:
1973 Dodge Challenger......................The ongoing project. (00/----\00)
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo....The sunny day cruiser (RTBoost)
1990 Toyota Celica GT Liftback...........The new daily & winter driver.
All-American Muscle: 'Cudas and Challengers...Still the Elite and always will be.

                                                                                             
                 
Street_Challenged73 from Wisconsin

Offline HemiDog

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1384
  • Do not Assume!
    • Hemi Dog
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2006 - 08:01:21 AM »
Becareful of the kit you buy.  Nitro cars require more support equipment to run.  Fuel, glow starters, and a starter box (in some cases) are examples of the most basic.  HPI make some of the best "ready to run" kits.  They have everything you need, minus the glow starter, fuel, and 'AA' batteries.  They also have some of the largest aftermarket parts available.

If you are going offroad I would suggest going with a 4x4.   The top end that you loose from the 4x4 is not missed, but the handling is much better.  I would suggest going with a 1/10 stadium truck to get most versatility.

Stay in the 1/10 scale class to keep the cost down.

I have a nitro 1/8 on road, nitro 1/10 on road, nitro 1/8 off-road buggy, and nitro 1/8 monster truck and out them, my favorite to run is the 1/8 buggy.   The buggies are pretty much the same as most stadium trucks, except the trucks tend to have a wider wheel base and larger tires.

Offline Super Blue 72

  • Permanent Resident
  • *******
  • Posts: 12711
  • "Big 'n Little" Member since 8/9/05
    • Phil's Super Blue '72
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2006 - 08:46:48 AM »
I agree with HemiDog.  They do require more support.  If you are used to electrics, nitro cars are lots of fun and very fast!  Keep in mind they are a little bit more of a headache (sometimes) to run.  Sometimes they don't start right up, flood easy, but they are worth it for the SPEEEEED!

Nitro cars because of thier speed need lots of room to have fun with.  A parking lot is cool.

The one you are looking at, I believe, is a single speed transmission.  I'm guessing that it's good for about 40+mph.  The 2 speed trannys are good for upwards of 65mph.  The model you're looking at is a 2wd buggy.  If you get a 4wd car/truck you can do DRIFTING with PVC tires.  The pull start on the engine is VERY helpful.

HPI is a very well know company.  Make sure what ever you buy is able to be serviced.  Going that fast you'll be smacking things so replacement parts are a must!

Like HemiDog said, a stadium track is most versitile.  It can handle jumps plus the lower center of gravity (vs a monster truck) let's it handle better. 

HPI makes a '70 Cuda body and also a Charger body that will fit on 1/10 scale trucks, maybe cars too.

Ebay has a cheaper company called Smartech.  I think for about $180 you get a full set up but BEWARE: replacement parts may be much harder to find than E-body parts!  I actually picked up a beat up one locally for $20 (- the transmitter)

Sign up for Tower Hobbies Speed Mart catalog and they may have somoe deals/ free shipping.  I also have seen nitro cars for sale on craigslist.org but be wary of used nitro cars due to possible damage or wrong break in procedure for the engine.

1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline Ravage

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 552
  • 1974 318 'Cuda
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2006 - 08:36:32 PM »
Well I picked up a nitro truck.I had such a lousy day at work I just had to get one today so I called all over and only one place had any ,with a whopping selection of three trucks.Spent more than I intended to originaly but I knew I prolly would running out like I did.I got this ... http://www.traxxas.com/products/nitro/maxx/tmaxx33/trx_tmaxx33.htm .I was into the last tank of gas for the break in period when my nephew wanted to try.Litteraly 2 seconds and it was in pieces  :crying: he smacked a curb and snapped the tie rod ,shocks and bulkhead but a price check puts the repair at $30 so it could have been much worse.Funny thing though ,the reason I had such a lousy day at work is because I jumped the company truck over a curb and broke a tie rod.Long day ,much destruction.I can't wait for tomorow  :faint:
"I flipped off a box of kittens once..." (Tycho on being evil)

Offline bordin34

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 669
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #6 on: June 24, 2006 - 09:03:13 PM »
I have 5 r/c cars one is nitro. An HPI savage its relieable and very durable. The T-Maxx is a nice  truck but it isnt durable at all as you discovered. I jumped my savage over 20ft and broke nothing. If you want a good site check out www.therczone.com

1973 Charger SE Brougham Black 400 auto
1974 Charger SE Brougham Blue 318 auto-SOLD

Offline Andrew

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2521
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #7 on: June 24, 2006 - 11:04:21 PM »
Im wondering, how easy is it to swap engines into stronger cars/trucks/buggies?

Offline Super Blue 72

  • Permanent Resident
  • *******
  • Posts: 12711
  • "Big 'n Little" Member since 8/9/05
    • Phil's Super Blue '72
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #8 on: June 25, 2006 - 04:09:27 AM »
Im wondering, how easy is it to swap engines into stronger cars/trucks/buggies?

I've often wondered that too.  :clueless:

Like a real car, it's doable so long as the bigger engine fits into the frame rails and the transmission hooks up clutch housing.  Not sure which engines are bored out versions of another, meaning they would have the same external dimensions.  Some enigines fit into the car by means of a mounting plate so a bigger engine may fit with a modified mounting plate.

I've heard some people with 1/8 scale nitro cars putting in engines from a weed whacker!

I bet the people at Tower Hobbies would know.
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline bordin34

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 669
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #9 on: June 25, 2006 - 05:55:32 AM »
There are 2 bolt patterns for these engine small-block which is from .12 to .18 usually, and big-block which is from .21 to .32. Any small-block will fit in a T-Maxx

1973 Charger SE Brougham Black 400 auto
1974 Charger SE Brougham Blue 318 auto-SOLD

Offline Super Blue 72

  • Permanent Resident
  • *******
  • Posts: 12711
  • "Big 'n Little" Member since 8/9/05
    • Phil's Super Blue '72
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #10 on: June 25, 2006 - 08:44:51 AM »
There are 2 bolt patterns for these engine small-block which is from .12 to .18 usually, and big-block which is from .21 to .32. Any small-block will fit in a T-Maxx

Great info!  :thumbsup:

Any idea what size a weed whacker engine is?  Is it a standard big block engine size?
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger

Offline Super Blue 72

  • Permanent Resident
  • *******
  • Posts: 12711
  • "Big 'n Little" Member since 8/9/05
    • Phil's Super Blue '72
Re: Nitro RC car
« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2006 - 08:51:35 AM »
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

Pic #2 and 3 of my ARII 1/24 scale model car 

Phil in New England-Massachusetts  Always thank God for what you have!

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/456046/1972-dodge-challenger