Author Topic: brakes  (Read 1998 times)

Offline 70nos340 barracuda

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brakes
« on: June 29, 2006 - 04:31:39 PM »
i want to put disc brakes on my 70 barracuda, i knew once what would work, but forgot i can't spend the $ right now for fancy ones but just hate the drums, any help so i can look in the junk yards for something else other than a cuda or chally? thanks




Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: brakes
« Reply #1 on: June 29, 2006 - 04:42:14 PM »
My 70 Chally had drums in the front. The mid 70 A-Body disc brakes are what is on there now. Find a 73-76 Dart, Valiant, or Duster. A nice little fact is the brake line for a 70 E-Body drum will fit the caliper of a 73-76 A-Body disc setup.  :grinyes: I assume you will need the spindles, and a master cylinder swap too.  :clueless:

  Mike

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline 70challengerrt

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Re: brakes
« Reply #2 on: June 29, 2006 - 04:45:34 PM »
I know a couple of months back scarebird mechanical was selling conversion adapter. Then you could get the rest of the parts from your local parts store. They give you all the part numbers and the total thing is 300-400 bucks when finished. I intend to try them when I start to work on my car this winter.

Offline 70nos340 barracuda

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Re: brakes
« Reply #3 on: June 29, 2006 - 04:56:20 PM »
thanks guys

Offline chrisII

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Re: brakes
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2006 - 05:35:58 PM »
 A body, B body, or F,M,J body will fit. if you get brakes off of a later B body (75 -79) you can get the bigger front rotors. the st.regis and other mini barges from 79-like81? also had them.(C body cars are different) you nead to find a car with the same style of uper and lower ball joint. luckly thats 75% of all rwd mopars.
     you will nead the spindles and caliper brackets from your donor car at the verry min. i would also try to get the proportioning valve and rear breaks or at least the backing plates and buy everything else new for the model of the donor car. this way the entire brake system is for one car and shuld be a properly balanced system that works well. if your car and the donor car have the same size rear brakes then i would just check to make sure it used the same size wheel cyls.

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: brakes
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2006 - 07:09:23 PM »
Save a little money up & do it right, check this out!
http://www.magnumhp.com/showdetails.php?ITEM=are-42
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline chrisII

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Re: brakes
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2006 - 07:58:53 PM »
thats a nice setup however they say right in the add they dont reccomend fro street use due to its light weight. and the whole kit is $650  . not really in the "low buck" neighborhood considering that he still would nead to get a set of spindles and all the other related parts. a pair of reman stock calipers is about $40-$50 by comparison.

     I forgot to mention above, if you ues the bigger brakes from a cordoba ect, you will not clear most 14" rims.

Offline 70nos340 barracuda

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Re: brakes
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2006 - 08:52:06 PM »
thanks for all the help and yes i need them 4 the street!

Offline Bullitt-

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Re: brakes
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2006 - 08:55:42 PM »
Don't ya figure if they are good enough for autocross that they just use the disclaimer to avoid having to spend the bucks to get DOT certified?
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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Offline chrisII

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Re: brakes
« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2006 - 10:53:29 AM »
ill take the chance that this may become heated and reply, Q: will they provide better stoping on my car by simply bolting them on A: They appear to be a 4 piston caliper, so i would assume they provide greater clamping force and greater potential stoping, however on most street cars just bolting them on will not improve breaking. as most of us have noticed, jaming on the breaks too hard will cause the front wheels to lock up before the rears in a good working stock setup. these may only worsen that problem. in a heavly used system they may reduce "heat fade" due to high fluid temps..wilwood makes an exelent high temp fluid that helps this problem alot on a stock setup. for about $15 a pint. its not usually a problem on even a highly abused street car but on my circle track cars i did nead it with stock brakes. It would not be super hard to improve the stock rear drums and help the balance problem, but i dont see them as a bolt on and go setup.  Q#2:  How do i know that being a racing part the aluminum will handle thousands of miles of stop and go traffic without failure? racers are usually pretty good about checking over a race car after every race, but how often do street cars get the wheels pulled off to look at such things?  A#2:  nobody knows what thousands of miles of heat cycles are going to do to this light aluminum part. If they did (and it survived) it would have DOT aproval. Q#3: Being that this part is not DOT approved, If I install it on my Street car , and i Am involved in an accadent where brakeing Is even a thought, who can be held responsible for the accadent beacuase My car caused an accadent (even if it may not be the reason for the brake failure) A#3:  Well it is NOT wiloods fault, they told me not to use them!!! so it is the INSTALLER (ME) who gets the lawsuit!.....my point here is , that im not a brake engeneer, But the people who designed the factory system were, and spent a bunch of money on building a safe system that lasts, and is cost effective. untill there is an inexpensive SYSTEM that an aftermarket mfr can Gaurntee will be better and not fail in a few years time. I will not sugguest It to anyone looking for a street car system. and i havnt really even touched the area of cost comparison.

Offline Plum6Pak

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Re: brakes
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2006 - 05:35:14 PM »
i want to put disc brakes on my 70 barracuda, i knew once what would work, but forgot i can't spend the $ right now for fancy ones but just hate the drums, any help so i can look in the junk yards for something else other than a cuda or chally? thanks

I used the type MEKrunner talked about, these came off of a 73 Duster. You will need the spindles, rotors and calipers. You will need the master cylinder with the larger front resevoir. Clean em up good, rebuild the calipers for about 10.00 and new pads for about 40.00 (for the good ones) and you'll be in like Flint! A little elbo grease, new bearings and you just saved about 400.00. (depending on how much you pay for the setup)

Offline 70nos340 barracuda

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Re: brakes
« Reply #11 on: June 30, 2006 - 05:56:27 PM »
thank you 4 the help

Offline chrisII

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Re: brakes
« Reply #12 on: June 30, 2006 - 06:54:05 PM »
plum6pack , those look really nice!  for about 20$ a side i would prefer to buy reman calipers, even if i was going to take em all apart to pretty em up like yours...i think it would be worth the $ to start with nice clean rust free ones. also some reman companys install the non metallic pistons when they do a reman..(i always ask for diplomat cop car calipers) i dont like the heat dissapating into my fluid. another small trick i learned through racing, the pistons are the same size im pretty sure.

Offline Plum6Pak

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Re: brakes
« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2006 - 07:01:51 AM »
I hear ya on the later larger rotors and pin type calipers, I just happened to have a 73 Duster to swap with, that's why I went with these. I'd go for those too if I had the choice. Either way will do better than front drum brakes. I was going to buy a set of aftermarket ones like I put on my Challenger that I ended up swapping for the car I have now, never got to try em. Then I saw my 73 Duster just sitting there asking me why I don't molest her a little and swap the brakes out.

Offline chrisII

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Re: brakes
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2006 - 11:01:08 AM »
I myself would rather stay away from the "pins" they do work fine, just always seemed to be more hassles with them, due to all the litle rubber gromets that like to move if they arent greased up well on assembly. once together they work just as well as the "sliders". Having a donor car sitting there is always nice, especialy on a first time swap.