How can I remove these? With simple tools

[Katfish]

I need to remove these ladder bar brackets that are welded on.  How can these be safely removed, I'm assuming some sort of cut-off wheel and then grinding?

Any help from someone that has done this before would be appreciated.

Thx

[heminut]

I would take it to someone who is good with a torch (or plasma cutter?) and have them torched off, then dress it down to the axle tube with a grinder.

[Challenger6pak]

I would cut them off an then grind the rest.  The other option is to replace the tubes.  When you weld and then grind it off like in this situation you weaken the metal.  Depending on what you use the rear for it might be better to replace the tubes. 

[tactransman]

   That is alot to remove !!!!!!!!!! I don't see how you can remove all that and not distort the tubing. I would cut it as close to the tube as I could and leave it alone if the welds are not in the way, or get new tubes installed.

When you weld and then grind it off like in this situation you weaken the metal.  Depending on what you use the rear for it might be better to replace the tubes. 

                                                

[Chryco Psycho]

Swap the housing out

[Katfish]

What's involved in replacing the tubes?  The rear end is an original E-body DANA.  I was hoping to keep it intact.

Any guesses on the cost to replace the tubes, and who would have them?


Thx

[tactransman]

You could try  http://www.moserengineering.com/index.html

[360 'CUDA]

I think the plazma cutter and makita grinder is the way to go. You might have to dress up the wound a little but don't let it get too hot. When your grinding take a break every once in a while and work on the other side.
 Before you do anything, check the axle tube because it might already be bent.  Racing can do that.  The common racing bend is looking down on the rearend from above. If it is bent the axle tube ends will be further back then the middle

kinda like this    -(

Even a quarter or half inch is a ton.  Pretty common on rearends that have the ladder bar mounts far inboard like yours. Same goes on SuperStock springs moved to far in.  That's the reason folks weld up the backbrace on rearends like the 83/4 and Ford 9"

[heminut]

When you weld and then grind it off like in this situation you weaken the metal. 

That's why I mentioned the plasma cutter. Those things put almost no heat into the metal, and the heat from grinding can be controlled like 360cuda said. If the tubes are straight now, I don't think you'll have any problems down the road, unless you plan on using the housing in a high horsepower racing application.

[Katfish]

Thanks for the suggestions,

I'll take a look and try and determine if its still straight.  If it looks ok, I might try the plasma cutter / grinding route.

I've always loved the way a DANA looks under an E-body.  My car is only a 340, might be wise to just keep the 8.75 and unload the DANA?

I don't want to get too involved in a costly rear-end project, i've got too many other items to tackle.

[360 'CUDA]

If you can bolt it in go for the Dana,,,, It's just too cool

[67Vette427]

I'd just go get a few cut off wheels and go to town. You should be able to dice em up close to the welds then finish off the welds with a grinder. If you trying to keep the car original the BOM is on the right tube anyway. Good Luck...don't forget your eye protection and a good set of ear plugs... better yet some head phones and some AC/DC..

[Katfish]

I'd like to try the cut-off wheel.  That's something I could do myself. 
What kind of cut-off wheel and where would I get it?
Is this something you put in a standard drill and use?

Thx