Disc Brake Conversion Question

[Plum6Pak]

 
I've already converted my front shoe brakes to disc from a a doner 73 duster. I've installed all new parts including new shoes, pads, rear drum cylinders, new kits in both calipers, new master cylinder and rebuilt the original proportioning valve out of the doner car. I've bled the brakes till I'm just about bled out,    still have about 4" of pedal travel unless you pump up the brakes, then they are nice and solid. I've verified there is no air in the system, I've installed a clear tube onto the air bleeders and the fluid is coming out solid and clean with no bubbles. The master cylinder is a new (rebuilt) exact part that was originally on the duster. It's manual front disc brakes. It seems to be the disc brake half of the MC that's not doing what it should, what am I missing? 

[422STROKER]

Did you bleed the m/c before you hooked up the brake lines?  Sounds like the m/c still has air in it.

Tom

[Plum6Pak]

Thanks Tom, I bench bled the MC before installing it on the firewall. Maybe I didn't get it good enough or something, I know on the later dual master cylinders there is a section in between the rear and front piston that could have air trapped and cause the mushy brake pedal. I'll try bleeding it again.

[422STROKER]

I also have the man setup on the disks I put them on 1mo ago bled it a few times to get it right but once I did the pedal was rock hard stops real nice I don't miss the power booster Good luck and keep us posted.

Tom

[Plum6Pak]

 Will do.

[OUTLAW]

also make sure the rear shoes are adjusted up well before bleeding the system too. too much clearance in rears will causde several problems with the pedal. Also bleed the master seperate from the rest of the system then start with the right rear and bleed left rear then right front and finally left front

[Plum6Pak]

Good to see you Outlaw, where ya been? Thanks for the info, I'll give it all a try tomorrow. Glad to see you're still around!