Alternator upgrade question

[ShelbyDogg]

Overpriced is more like it. How much was that puppy?   I would only add an Alternator over 100 amps if I had a huge bank of amps and video equipment to run while idling at a show. You would know that you need it because the amp draw would be greater that the alternator charge showing a negative on an amp meter. As far as a 25-45 dollar 65 amp LIFETIME replacement alternator at Autozone, you can't beat that unless you have to have the bigger one.

At the local Junk yard over the weekend, I also noticed on the late '70s and up Mopars they used a larger than 10 guage ALT Charging wire. It looked more like an 8 Guage.   I always changed it to a 10 but after seeing  this, I'll start using bigger wire. I might have to double up on the fusible link too because the largest size I buy is 14 guage but I want to be able to handle at least 100 amps. I think 2 parallel 16s would probably do it.

Rob

[422STROKER]

Just a question   Do you just add that #10 wire in addition to the existing wiring or do you also bypass th factory firewall conn?  Sorry to hijack a little.  BTW a #10 is good for @ 40A MAX maybe 45A if you use 105C wiring
Tom

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Just a question   Do you just add that #10 wire in addition to the existing wiring or do you also bypass th factory firewall conn?  Sorry to hijack a little.  BTW a #10 is good for @ 40A MAX maybe 45A if you use 105C wiring
Tom

That's a good question.  The wire is added in addition to what is there from the factory. Kind of extra insurance, so to speak. Like I mentioned, it is still on my "to do" list.


  Mike

[422STROKER]

Thanks for the reply now it's on my "to do" list.
Tom

[ShelbyDogg]

I use the bigger wire to REPLACE the original factory skinny wire.  On my Chally, I ran the wire directly to the starter solenoid with a fusible link in series. In my cuda, I wired the new wire right through the firewall connector by drilling a hole straight through both the female and male connector then tying it to the inside wire with a big wire nut.  I also do the same for the big red power wire from the starter solenoid. 

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Rob,

  In doing that, how would that keep the original amp meter working? I know you are an advocate of the volt meter, but if a few us want to stay stock... what do you suggest?


  Mike

[ShelbyDogg]

In the cuda, that fix bypasses the 2 bad overrated spade terminals that would eventually smoke. The ampmeter still works but I don't have all of the Hi-amp accessories like the Challenger.

[miketyler]

I just upgraded my 340 to a 140amp OEM Mopar Denso unit. I also ran the large guage wire from the ALT output to the horn relay. The amp guage still registers and seems to behave as previous.

If anyone is interested I have an extra Denso 140 amp alt for $25+shipping. It bolts right up with only a few minor mods.

MRT 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

The bearings on my current Alternator if burning out.  I've always gotten the 65 amp alternator since I have power windows, air conditioning and special interior light package.  I was looking at alternators online and noticed CSK/Shucks auto had 100 amp alternators available.  I know a few of you mentioned it might be over kill for most cars.  Why? 

Overkill? Not in my opinion, my nickname is overkill when it comes to electrical. I run a 90amp alternator. Now will it kill your stock wiring? I'd put money on that it will. You go up in alternator, it is VERY wise that you bypass that amp gauge before you catch something on fire. just my .02cents. But it's not overkill if you ask me.