Author Topic: Big Block?  (Read 1939 times)

Offline Customopar

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Big Block?
« on: July 21, 2006 - 01:22:58 AM »
Hi guys im looking at a BB Fuel injected
Indy Heads or Mopar Performance or Rebuild from scratch? Is the Aluminium Block an overkill for the street?
It has to be streetable/reliable/durable with around the 650hp on pump Wattya thoughts?




Offline Customopar

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #1 on: July 21, 2006 - 06:30:30 PM »
bump!

Offline tactransman

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #2 on: July 21, 2006 - 06:52:10 PM »
IMO aluminum block is over kill for the street.You can build a very mean cast iron big block for the street.
Terry-tactransman 
Torqueflite/Automatic Transmission Specialist
Union, Mo.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day,teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #3 on: July 22, 2006 - 01:20:00 AM »
ti depend what you ultimatly want to do , a decent alum block can take 2200 hp with no problems overkill for some worthwhile for others , alum definatly offers some advantages , lighter weight & al lthe cylinders have exactly equal cylinder wall sthickness as they use liners

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Follicly Challenged

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #4 on: July 24, 2006 - 05:46:56 AM »
"all things being equal" between 2 engines, 1 built with an Aluminum Block and the other Cast Iron, the cast iron will make more power due to the aluminums thermal expansion rates and heat dissipation.
 
Not an issue on 2-3000 HP deals, probably not @ the 650 hp deal as mentioned either, due to the lighter weight being more of a factor in power/weight.

Who's aluminum Block are you considering ?  KB ?  Anderson ?

If you're going aluminum, how big an engine ? Why not something up around 600 Inch and 750-900 hp ? 
540 inch stuff at 750 is relatively "easy" if you're goin there.

FC out.

Offline moper

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #5 on: July 24, 2006 - 08:02:35 AM »
Sounds like a fishing expedition... :popcorn:
  What are you doing with the car? You can rebuild an engine, make it bigger, buy a "crate" version, or build a completely new one. If you haven't built an aluminum block engine before, find someone who has. there are vast differencs in quality and "as delivered" condition along with price. A nice, solid 600 hp N/A big block in the 500" range with EFI should run in the $10-$12K range including the EFI. You could build a carbureted one for about $3500 less. Indy has iron block "crate" engines selling for $9500 with carb and dyno setup. It could be duplicated for about $1800 less, using their heads...lol. So, what is the intended use? Road racing could really use an aluminum block. They will run from $3500 or so to $5K for one. So the  project prices would go up by about 25-20%. KB is billed as "ready to run", and I've only seen one issue with one out of 4-5 I know about, and they took care of it. Indys need a bit of correction. Dont trust the machine work from them. At least have it checked. Mega blocks are also in major need, so the "best" cost effective way may be to buy an MP crate, and have it all torn down, fixed, and made into what you want. But that's not aluminum...

Offline Fast Finch

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #6 on: July 24, 2006 - 11:08:22 AM »
I would agree, we need a little more information.  Will it be a daily driver? What car will it be in? etc... :clueless:

I have a streetable rebuilt 440, 60 over.  I have yet to Dyno her but we expect well over 550hp.  This is plenty for me.  My drivetrain has a lot to do with my experience to.  The Drivetrain must be considered when you choose a path for your engine. Also the front end should be beefed up to handle the torque.

My 727 manual reverse valve train is a pleasure and with a 3:55 posi diff gives me a very streetable ride. :bananasmi

I could have stroked the 440 for a little more money but thought it overkill.  I would have been over 600 pretty easily.

The cost of my engine about $6000, tranny $3500 and diff $1000.  Oh! don't forget the exhaust, I have a TTI ceramic coated headers with an "X" pipe 2 1/2" exhaust system.  Sounds great and increases hp! :2thumbs:

All in All, completely worth the money and time! :burnout:

Michael
Love all Mopars especially B and E bodies.  Currently own a '69 Charger touting over 550hp reverse valve train manual shift with a 3:55 posi rear end, Y2 yellow and, YES it is my Daily Driver.
One day an E body will be setting next to her.

Offline Customopar

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #7 on: July 24, 2006 - 05:51:12 PM »
cheers guys learning more from this forum thank you
Its either a 70Chally or 70barracuda itll be going in 727 GV 9 inch with Tri 4 bar Coil overs
I was thinking either the Alum 540 from Mopar or the 528 Allum from Indy i havnt checked out the Anderson or KB hemis as yet
Not a daily driver but i want her to be able to clock up the miles and be very reliable at the same time basically an awsome street car to have fun with  :burnout:
Any opinioins on that MSD Fi set up? thanks for the input

Offline Follicly Challenged

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #8 on: July 25, 2006 - 08:30:30 AM »
MP crate engines are great "Value for Money" as "Building Blocks".

As mentioned, they require complete teardown and "rework", for best results as per your application, but still a good bet to get started. Don't trust them as delivered.

just my 2 cents
FC out.

Offline HemiDog

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #9 on: July 25, 2006 - 10:18:12 AM »
I am having an EFI Hemi built right now.  When you get into it you need to find out if the EFI computer comes with what you are purchasing along with all the required sensors and harnesses.  In my build, the Stage V intake manifold, dual throttle bodies, FAST XFI ECU, main harness, injector harness, ignition adapter harness, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, Map Sensor, 8 65lb injectors, injector bungs, fuel regulator, and setup of the EFI all costs about $5700.  About $600 of that is labor.  You can cut another $600 by going with a single throttle body.

Point is that you really need to look at what you are getting when buying an EFI setup.  There might be other things you will need to consider purchasing to get it to work.

You will have to address your fuel delivery system too with a new pump, modified fuel tank with a sump and/or baffles, and new feed and return lines.

The rest of the motor is a blueprinted aluminum 572 KB with Stage V aluminum heads.  It should be a rock solid motor with over 700hp on pump gas and intended to be street friendly.  The motor and dyno, minus the intake as above is about $26,000.  I know that the MP 540 is about $31,000 total but does include the intake and carb, but also doesn't include the dyno.  When you end up spending this kind of money, the dyno starts to become really important in my opinion.  When looking at all the options I had, the 540 just started to look like the least attractive route to go.  I personally think you can get much better for the money. :thumbsup:

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #10 on: July 25, 2006 - 10:28:27 AM »
I tend to agree , the Mopar crates are overpriced for what you get , for equal or less $$ you can build what you want & pick your cam compression ratio etc

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Follicly Challenged

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2006 - 09:46:36 AM »
Yep, I gotta agree HemiDog, with where you're going the MP crate is no bargain, and ditto the dyno'ing importance, also general continuity "not there" for your application.
I was thinking more the 500" junk with the cast pistons etc., for a rework candidate,(throw out pistons).
They still sell those ?
They used to be a fairly cheap bargain for a "brackets building block", but I haven't used one in years.

Offline moper

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Re: Big Block?
« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2006 - 12:40:26 PM »
There are a few on racingjunk.com that look good. A couple bare early Mega 4.5" Blocks, and a couple complete 500+" engines. 1 604" with the NRC heads and aluminum block...lol.