Torqueflite Tip: Inside a Torque Converter

[tactransman]

Here is a blow apart of a torque converter.
The part on the left is splined to the transmission input shaft(Turbine)

The part on the right is basically solid to the engine(Impeller)

The part in the middle is the (Stator) , it helps to direct the fluid at a more effective angle from the   impeller to the turbine .The stator has a sprag in it so it can freewheel when it is not needed .

Stall converters (through several different ways) make the effectiveness of the stator not as good. It takes more fluid (engine RPM) to move the turbine.

To put it another way , it is like two fans pointed at one another, turn the one fan on and the air(fluid) makes the second fan spin even though it is not plugged in.

The other picture is a lock up clutch.
It floats freely in the converter.
The converter rebuilder companies (the good ones) bond the clutch to one surface so it is more stable and it only wears on one side. It is actually locking up on the converter cover behind the bolt pads. That is why you have to make sure that the converter bolts do not bottom out in the pad , distorting the cover.

[RedLine]

what is the purpose of the two separate rings of fins - the inside and outside-  why isnt there just one big section to catch the fluid

[tactransman]

There really is one big section, that is a support ring so the fins don't bend over.  Good question.

[Bullitt-]

Truly tractransman you treat us with thoughtful tidbits of torqueflight transmission tips. 

would you please elaborate on the differences in the average brand X converter and the pricier name brands on the market

[tactransman]

If you look at that last pic , the gold looking stuff is brazing , furnace brazing. This torque converter is out of a front wheel drive chrysler (they all look very similiar on the inside).Chrysler has always furnaced brazed their fins from the factory.

 G.M. has little slots that the corner of the fins sticks thru , then it is bent over like a "tab" . If the fin gets pressure on it a G.M. fin can straighten the tab and pull thru allowing the fin to move out of place and come apart.
That fins goes and bangs another fin then the domino effect happens.
 I can order a G. M. converter HD which means that they furnace braze the tab so it can't pull out of the slot.

 A good stall converter will be "furnaced brazed, have torrington bearings instead of thrust washers ,an anti ballooning plate to keep the bowl from ballooning out (swelling) and it will tighten up tighter(stop slipping ,get more torque through it) after it gets above it's stall range.

With stall converters , you get what you pay for.

[moper]

I'll just add, the fluid constantly runs thru those vanes. Think of when you fill a bucket with a hose. Teh water goes right down the center, and is directed around the shape of the bucket, creating a continuous loop of flow. Same thing inside the convertor. Which is why it can develop so much heat so fast in the wrong application. The angle and placement of the fins is what changes stall speeds, torque multiplication, and the rpm/load that the convertor efectively "locks" at. That's where the stator and case are turning almost the same or the same speed. It's so precise that a few degrees here or there can change any and all of those 3 things. Also why sometimes a new part is needed, because they cant get the angles they need with exisiting parts or case diameters. There's a lot of "voo doo in them thar doohickies.."

[tactransman]

I found a cool link, check it out.
http://www.tcsproducts.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=12