If you hav never done it, here's acouple of things. Put it on an engine stand. They are cheap, so buy one and use it. It's safer, and will make life much easier..lol. I always start at the top. take off carb, fuel line(s), coil & bracket, throttle cable bracket, return spring bracket, hoses, alternator, belts, and pulleys. At this point, I usually take a large pan, and using a punch, either punch a hole in a core plug, or partially remove a core plug so the block drains. When that's done, do the other side of the block. When that's done, do the same with the oil in the pan. Then, pull the valve covers, and then intake. Inspect the ports for oil and soot, or signs of gasket leakage. the dist can be removed at any time before or after the intake. Next, remove the rocker asemblies and pushrods. If you are planning to reuse these, I would suggest keeping them in order. Holes punched in cardboard work good for me to keep them in the right positition. Next, the water pump and fuel pump. Then, using an air gun, or an assistant to hold the crank still, loosen the balancer bolt. (the easiest way to hold it steady is to thread in two flex plate bolts into the crank, and us a pce of steel bar or a pry bar to ally force to the crank at the same time the bolt is loosened. Just pulling hard may result in tipping the stand over, severe foot pain, and broken parts...) Using a balancer remover, pull the balancer, then the timing cover. At this point, I remove the heads. Pull the timing set, then the oil pump drive and the lifters. These should also be kept in order for reuse. Also, they need to be in a box, dont leave them open to the dust and stuff in the air. Next, pull the camshaft out. Now, unbolt the oil pan, lowering it carefully without tipping it. Unbolt the windage tray, oil pump and pickup asembly, and remove. Now you can roll the shortblock over on the stand..It's a lot lighter, and most of the oil came out with the pan and pump...so it doesnt drip as much. (coolant was also already drained) Then eac piston and rod assembly, and the main caps and crank. Keep every bearing with it's respective part. Bearings tell a story just like spark plugs can. You machinist will want to look at them if he's any good. Same thing with rings. Leave them on the respective pistons. Also, you will want to make sure the rods are clearely marked as to which cylinder they were in. Usually, they are stamped at the rod cap parting lines by the previous assembler, but I've had a couple that werent. Good luck..lots of drain pans and rags help too!
