should I re-roof or repair the holes?

Author Topic: should I re-roof or repair the holes?  (Read 1208 times)

Offline Ryans71chally

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should I re-roof or repair the holes?
« on: November 14, 2006 - 07:59:25 PM »
I have acess to a 70 hardtop roof that goes down below the pillars and cowl inn front and about 8 inches past the rear quarter/sail panel pillar. I fyou look at this picture you can see that there are gaping holes thru both walls of metal at the driver's side of the rear that will not be covered by a dutchman panel replacement or simple a roof skin. What do I do? Please see this thread for ALL of the rotted out areas in my pillars. http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=23211.0
Thanks!
Ryan
« Last Edit: November 14, 2006 - 08:02:29 PM by Ryans71chally »




Offline Ryans71chally

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Re: should I re-roof or repair the holes?
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2006 - 01:49:26 PM »
Hey everyone I was Ryanc71challenger before and I'm ryans71chally now. Surely someone can answer this. The holes are in an awkward place so what to do? Thanks
Ryan 

Offline 67vertman

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Re: should I re-roof or repair the holes?
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2006 - 07:45:22 PM »
At first I was going to suggest that you cut out the bad parts and patch it with pieces from you spare roof,  :scared: until I looked at your other thread, wow that RUSTY. :scared:

It will probably be easier to replace the whole roof.  There are plenty of threads on here showing the process.  It would take you more time to patch all those holes than it would to replace the whole roof as one piece.  :2thumbs:

If you need inspiration check out the Members restorations thread.  There are a few people in there who are taking on bigger projects then this.

Moparclown comes to mind as one of the member who isn’t afraid of a rusty project.  :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol:




Ron - Born and raised in Southern California

I got the 1970 Cuda, but still need the hot blonde to ride shotgun!

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Offline Ryans71chally

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Re: should I re-roof or repair the holes?
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2006 - 09:01:01 PM »
yeah and the !@#$% from San Jose, CA sold it to me and represented it on EBAY and Craigslist as a rust free car when when knew other wise. I taked to the car's previous owner an the car when sold had a white top and Alex did a headliner on the car so it stands to reason he could clearly see how bad the car was.

Now , a roof skin replacemnt will not cover that part of the car. the rusty part is on the bottom part o fthe rear window glass. I think the roof I have a line on goes past the pillars to the cowl, but my front pillar post look OK. should i just leave those in place and drop the roof on and weld them to the existing pillars or...drop the whole shebang on?
« Last Edit: November 22, 2006 - 10:58:32 AM by Ryans71chally »

Offline 72hemi

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Re: should I re-roof or repair the holes?
« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2006 - 09:02:57 AM »
That is not bad for rust on a vinyl top car. I would not replace the whole roof. I would just fix the rust with patches. My 72 Challenger had way more rust in the roof than that and I just welded up the holes. My car took seven patch panels in the roof. Replacing the entire roof is a big deal. You will safe yourself a lot of time and heart ache in my opinion, but you can do whatever you want. But seriously that amount of rust I don;t think requires the replacement of the entire roof.
1972 Dodge Challenger 340 6 Pack 4-speed
1996 Dodge Viper GTS Coupe

Offline Ryans71chally

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Re: should I re-roof or repair the holes?
« Reply #5 on: November 17, 2006 - 10:14:22 AM »
What do you suggest for the rusty parts by the rear window? It is curved. I would assume that the rear glass would want to be out. WWhen you patcheed your roof did you also fry your headliner? AmI in for that as well? Thanks for the input fellas.

Offline Street_Challenged73

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Re: should I re-roof or repair the holes?
« Reply #6 on: November 17, 2006 - 03:04:35 PM »
Yikes, that is quite a bit of rust, but I'd opt to patch it considering the rusted areas are mostly around the quarter panel and roof joint.  You'll want to strip the entire upper portion of the car from the A-pillars and C-pillars up to see what else lurks under the drip rail moulding as well as the actual window channels. (don't want that to be weak and have window sealing problems due to that.)  The best way to remove the rear window from the channel is first unclip the window moulding then the inside channels to get to the adhesive.  Then a ulitity knife a couple times around the inside perimeter of the glass as well as some cutting on the outside should free the glass.  Don't use too much pressure when trying to remove it; make sure it literally pops right out for you with little effort.  That rear glass can get pricy if you have to source another one. :2thumbs:
1973 Dodge Challenger......................The ongoing project. (00/----\00)
1991 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo....The sunny day cruiser (RTBoost)
1990 Toyota Celica GT Liftback...........The new daily & winter driver.
All-American Muscle: 'Cudas and Challengers...Still the Elite and always will be.

                                                                                             
                 
Street_Challenged73 from Wisconsin