Latest: upgrade from points to electronic?

[chevyconvert]

Was planning on upgrading to pertronix coil/wires/dist.kit.
Did some archival research here and read the old threads about "FBO", but nothing on it lately.

So....What's the latest "hot" set-up for the conversion?

Anyways here's what I'm looking for:
1. easy install (no drama)
2. stock appearance
3. more performance etc.
4. rev limiter ('cuz my rallydash tach sucks)
5. guidance as to what you think I should do to her ignitionwise. I'd like to keep the same dist.?
 
what I know about my car:
1. 1970 Dodge Challenger 440 six pack (entire fuel system fresh and runnin' great)
2. 4 -speed manual with 3:23 suregrip rear and 15" wheels (originally automatic)
3. power brakes
4. stock hp exhaust manifolds and exhaust
5. stock ? heads
6. calif. emissions
7. want to be able to run her hard thru the gears, but no real racing.
 
what I don't know:
1. any particulars about the engine i.e. cam type etc. (though it seems fairly mild)
basically we'll have assume stock components, comp. ratio etc.
 
Thanks in advance

[72hemi]

I've always used the Mopar Electronic ignition conversion kit. It is really straight forward I have had really good luck with it. Check out manciniracing.com they have them for around 200 bucks. Alos here is a link to Summit Racing they have them for $200.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DCC%2D3690428&N=700+4294925143+4294908110+400172+115&autoview=sku

[Chryco Psycho]

the Mopar electronic works well & the ECU can be hidden under the battery tray or inside the car but doesn`t offer a rev limiter , you can hook up a stand alone MSD rev limiter or the Crane HI6 or Mallory offer a digital ign with dial in rev limiters , the Msd offers both the 6 style ign with chips to control RPM or Digital ign with dials for rpm limits but the MSD is typically 2x or more cost over the Crane Or Mallory

[chevyconvert]

i'll check that out.


Any opinions on the FBO & Pertronix...?

[Chryco Psycho]

I wouldn`t waste my time with FBO a few friends tried it & the cars ran better with stock parts , the only part that seems decent is the ECU maybe
as I have posted in other places the Pertronic works in most cases but I have run into a few that were nto good , they had problems starting & would cut out occasionally , & with pertronics you will not get replacement parts at a parts store typically

[duodec]

We used to sell Pertronix kits for volkswagens and other silly little furrin cars years ago.  They were liked, and seemed to run well.  Problems noted: the optical 'rotor' (the plastic disk with slits in it) was fragile, and became more so with age and heat.  Dust could be a problem as it could coat the emitter/receptor and cause weak readings.  And as Chryco mentioned, parts are not going to be universally available.

Rich

[heminut]

Whatever happened to Don from FBO? He used to post here quite a bit and seemed to really stand behind his stuff. Seems like he just kind of vanished!

[chevyconvert]

I emailed him recently about my car and he got back to me right away.
Probably just 2 busy for 

[plumbeeper]

Definitely go with the Mopar electronic ignition. It is easy to install, reliable, consistant, low maint. etc...

[JayBee]

Definitely go with the Mopar electronic ignition. It is easy to install, reliable, consistant, low maint. etc...

  I've had one in my car for so long that I can't remember since when and never had a problem.

[basement]

Someone correct me, but I think if you have a factory indash tachometer then you have to use some kind of current reducing resistor between the tach and coil when switching to electronic ignition. Or bad things will come of the tach. My tach was hosed when I got the car and I think that's what happened to it.

[72hemi]

I just found out about another ignition company from another member here on the forums. The website is www.4secondsflat.com

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Someone correct me, but I think if you have a factory indash tachometer then you have to use some kind of current reducing resistor between the tach and coil when switching to electronic ignition. Or bad things will come of the tach. My tach was hosed when I got the car and I think that's what happened to it.

That's not true. The coil will put out whatever no matter if it's points, or electronic ignition. The "-" side of the coil feeds your tach, it's about 4-5 volts. Most of the original tachs died out somewhere along the line. Mine was dead too.   


   Mike

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I just found out about another ignition company from another member here on the forums. The website is www.4secondsflat.com

That's FBO. I went with them, and I love the setup. It looks stock, so nobody will think otherwise.


  Mike