440 YIKES

[Stacked440]

I wouldn't get a stock one either, I'm going to order a rotating assembly and that shaft from 440 source.

[Stacked440]

Block is toast   The guy we bought it from originally bored it .60 over from standard   And after the recent mishap the cylinders are scored BAD.  So...anyone got a 440 block for sale?  Save me!!

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Block is toast   The guy we bought it from originally bored it .60 over from standard   And after the recent mishap the cylinders are scored BAD.  So...anyone got a 440 block for sale?  Save me!!

Sorry to hear that. I have a 440 block, but it's in my car... so that whole package will cost extra. 


Hey, seriously...I'm sorry about this.


  Mike

[mopar_guy]

Block is toast

that sucks! im sorry to hear about that.hope you get up and running asap.

[Green Drop Top]

Shipping might suck but I've got a couple good blocks, I'll sell you one for a reasonable price. 

[Stacked440]

Thanks harms but the shipping would cost a lot for freight charge!  I've heard that mid-later 70's blocks were stronger than the early 70's 440 blocks.  Is this true and will the heads, bellhousing, etc etc etc bolt right up to a 75' block from a 71 block?

[willhaven]

Apparently the slightly later blocks had a high nickel content and are preferable because of it.

Why exactly I'm not sure.

[Green Drop Top]

Any difference in block strength is so small you'll likely never have any better luck with one or the other, they are all plenty strong up to 600HP or so. I've run a bunch of them in race cars as well as street strip/cars up to and beyond 700HP and have never lost a lower end or had a block fail yet. That being said, any of them will start getting some cap walk past 600HP, any higher and I'd reccomend an aftermarket block (and just about everything else as well).

 

*BTW, bare blocks with caps weigh around #225lb. Add #50-#75 for a crate/pallette and you'll end up at around #300lbs ship weight. From Spokane to anywhere USA is generally under $200.00