Author Topic: what mc to use???  (Read 3246 times)

Offline freightdriver

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what mc to use???
« on: March 06, 2006 - 01:58:43 AM »
my challenger originally had power drums all the way around.. i've swaped disk up front i've got an mc off of it that was from when it had power drums can i use that mc?? and just install a porportioning valve on the rear brakes..


also while i'm on this subject what does everyone do about the hole on the firewall when going from power to manual brakes??




Offline FY1 RT SE

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2006 - 10:45:57 AM »
You need to get a disc brake master, make sure it has the ridge in the back of it to hold the rubber grommet (if manual brakes) that holds the push rod in.

What hole in the firewall?  The backing plates should cover the holes.

« Last Edit: March 06, 2006 - 10:57:01 AM by FY1 RT SE »

Offline freightdriver

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2006 - 12:54:11 PM »
where can i purchase that backing plate??? i figured i had to be missing something...

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2006 - 02:11:48 AM »
I may have a spare backing plate if you cannot locate one

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline freightdriver

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2006 - 02:34:56 AM »
i found one on ebay with 5 days left and thats bout it... what would you want for yours chryco??

also are there any of the later 2 stud mc's that'll have the ridge needed for manual brakes??

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2006 - 03:03:03 AM »
let me see if I can find the plate
 
 I used a power 2 bolt master on manual brakes last month , no problem , just had to tailor the pushrod length
« Last Edit: April 26, 2007 - 11:46:59 PM by Chryco Psycho »

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Offline freightdriver

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2006 - 03:27:06 AM »
someone said something about a ridge to hold a rubber grommet???  looks like i'll be prolly be picking up a mc this weekend hopefully my 2 stud adapter comes this week  :clapping:

Offline falcon50flier

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #7 on: March 08, 2006 - 01:16:10 PM »
Freightdriver, your conversion to front discs has as many options as an engine build. Whose master cyl are you going to run, MP, Wilwood, Master Power, SSBC? Everything you need is readily available, but the decisions are many.

If manual MC, the bore size has a big effect on brake performance (hydraulic gain). I run a Wilwood w/ 1.03 bore, with their adjustable prop valve on the rear line. (The Wilwood prop valve starts at about 55% if I recall.) This is with their 4 piston ProLite calipers front and rear.

The line size also effects response, because the fluid travels "farther" on a given application in a smaller line than in a larger one. This, combined with the swept volume of the pistons (2, 4, or 6) in your calipers will determine how the system performs, along with the pedal ratio and the MC bore.

Note:Power brake cars need to have the pedal assembly changed to the manual brake configuration (see service manual), removing the extra linkage that reduces pedal leverage to the power booster/MC. To set pedal height with an aftermarket MC, you'll also need an adjustable pushrod, available as an MP part (Mancini, Jims Auto Parts,..).

Finally, don't scrimp on the plumbing. Use new lines, hard and flex, with a new master and calipers. See Classic Tube or Inline TUbe for their catalogs of fittings, lines, tools, atc.

Best of luck, brakes are the most challenging (you live or ??) and rewarding to upgrade.
70 Challenger convertible
518 cid Hemi, TF727, 3.73 Dana 60

Offline TrakHor

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2007 - 09:18:01 PM »
Freightdriver, your conversion to front discs has as many options as an engine build. Whose master cyl are you going to run, MP, Wilwood, Master Power, SSBC? Everything you need is readily available, but the decisions are many.

If manual MC, the bore size has a big effect on brake performance (hydraulic gain). I run a Wilwood w/ 1.03 bore, with their adjustable prop valve on the rear line. (The Wilwood prop valve starts at about 55% if I recall.) This is with their 4 piston ProLite calipers front and rear.

The line size also effects response, because the fluid travels "farther" on a given application in a smaller line than in a larger one. This, combined with the swept volume of the pistons (2, 4, or 6) in your calipers will determine how the system performs, along with the pedal ratio and the MC bore.

Note:Power brake cars need to have the pedal assembly changed to the manual brake configuration (see service manual), removing the extra linkage that reduces pedal leverage to the power booster/MC. To set pedal height with an aftermarket MC, you'll also need an adjustable pushrod, available as an MP part (Mancini, Jims Auto Parts,..).

Finally, don't scrimp on the plumbing. Use new lines, hard and flex, with a new master and calipers. See Classic Tube or Inline TUbe for their catalogs of fittings, lines, tools, atc.

Best of luck, brakes are the most challenging (you live or ??) and rewarding to upgrade.
Does anyone know details about converting a power brake pedal linkage to manual. I have a factor svc manual for 74 vehicles not 73, the year of my car. I can't find anything that talks of converting the pedal to operate as manual.
Thanks
Jason

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2007 - 11:48:23 PM »
when you remove the booster the leverage contraption come out with it , you justr need a longer straight pushrod for manual brakes

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Offline TrakHor

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #10 on: April 27, 2007 - 05:35:53 AM »
when you remove the booster the leverage contraption come out with it , you justr need a longer straight pushrod for manual brakes

Cool, thanks I'll give that a try.

Offline dwbiggs

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Re: what mc to use???
« Reply #11 on: April 27, 2007 - 02:01:16 PM »
Just put one of these on my disc brake car.

I just scored another bunch of aluminum master cylinders made by an original Mopar
supplier. These are the good, level-reservoir ones as sold by MP in the mid-'90s, not
the lousy "slanted" ones they sell now.

It has the machined recess in the primary piston so a manual-brake pushrod will work
(the stock pushrod is fine, no mods required. I will supply the rubber retainer for $1 if requested when you send payment). This m/cyl also works fine with a power booster - again, no mods, 100% bolt-on.

Has the same fittings as all '67-up RWD Mopars. I'm including a CNC billet 4-to-2-bolt
adapter from AR Engineering so it's a 100% bolt-in swap in any E-body and virtually
any other Mopar back to 1962. Save ~10 lbs. of ugly iron, no modifications whatsoever
required! (of course, you'd need to plumb in dual circuits on '62-'66, a great upgrade!)

This has the great 1.125" bore for super pedal feel and reserve. Great for front discs,
4-wheel discs, or 4-wheel drums!

Price is $63 each qty. = 1, or 2 for $121. (More? Inquire!) USPS Priority shipping for
one or two in USA is $10.85 with delivery confirmation. Export - inquire.

PayPal (I'll send invoice) or Money order OK.

Do not use PM - contact only by e-mail please:
rick@richardehrenberg.com

1974 Challenger Rallye - 440+.040, 0 decked, 10.5:1, Ross Pistons, Hughes 3844 cam (238/244, .536/.540), Eddy RPM manifold, Eddy aluminum heads, Holley 750, TTI headers, .96" T-bars, IAS shocks, 1 1/8" front sway bar, 3/4" rear sway bar, XHD 6 leaf springs, Firm Feel stage 2 steering box.