Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?

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    Author Topic: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?  (Read 2180 times)

    Offline widing'cuda

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    Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « on: June 12, 2007 - 02:01:04 PM »
    I'm replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?

    The reason for replacing it is that it leakis in the drain plug. I've replaced the drain plug and gasket. But it's still leaking as the pan is crooked were the sealer hits the pan. I've got myself a new repro pan that I have painted and is ready for installation.

    As fare as I can see. All I need to do is remove the steering linkage. My headers clear the pan just fine (headman headers). Drain the oil and remove the oil dip stick. Remove the oil pan bolts and lower it down. replace the gasket and bolt on the new oil pan. Right?
    « Last Edit: June 12, 2007 - 02:19:54 PM by widing'cuda »
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    - Jørgen - Norwegian Mopar fanatic

    1970 Plymouth 'Cuda 383 A833 8-3/4 3.23 suregrip
    http://cuda.widing.biz/


    Offline basement

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #1 on: June 12, 2007 - 03:04:09 PM »
    Sounds good to me. My personel preference is to use a permatex on the pan side and axle grease on the block side, just makes future removal of the gasket material alittle easier.
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    Offline matt63

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #2 on: June 12, 2007 - 03:43:37 PM »
    If you've got a windage tray it is a fiddly job to do with the engine in the car.  I would consider using Gasgacinch or some other kind of adhesive to keep the gaskets in place while putting the pan, windage tray and 2 gaskets back up in place while trying to get bolts in.  I have coveralls that are covered in silicone from the last time I did this.
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    Matt in Edmonton

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    Offline widing'cuda

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #3 on: June 12, 2007 - 04:17:50 PM »
    Thanks for the tips guys  :2thumbs:
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    - Jørgen - Norwegian Mopar fanatic

    1970 Plymouth 'Cuda 383 A833 8-3/4 3.23 suregrip
    http://cuda.widing.biz/

    Offline Chryco Psycho

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #4 on: June 13, 2007 - 12:51:00 AM »
    I would install a windge tray if you do not have one
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    Offline cudabob496

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #5 on: June 13, 2007 - 01:11:04 AM »
    Amen to that!
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    72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

    1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

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    Offline cudabob496

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #6 on: June 13, 2007 - 01:14:08 AM »
    A good time to make sure the oil pickup is in good shape. On my 440, the crank was rubbing against it and close to putting a hole in the side of the pickup. An almost possible loss of oil pressure event. Make sure pickup is not loose.
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    72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

    1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

    2011 Kawasaki Z1000

    Offline cudabob496

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #7 on: June 17, 2007 - 01:21:08 AM »
    An opportunity to replace rear main seal if leaking? (I've never done it so I am not sure)
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    72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

    1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

    2011 Kawasaki Z1000

    Offline Chryco Psycho

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #8 on: June 17, 2007 - 09:09:22 AM »
    the rear main can be swapped at the same time
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    Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

    Offline cudabob496

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #9 on: June 17, 2007 - 01:18:14 PM »
    IF you ever want to weld in a tap to your oil pan to monitor oil temperature, now is the time (though I just modified my drain plug to accept a mechanical temp gauge).
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    72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

    1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

    2011 Kawasaki Z1000

    Offline widing'cuda

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    Re: Replacing the oil pan on my 383, anything I should look out for?
    « Reply #10 on: June 17, 2007 - 01:42:28 PM »
    Thanks for the tips guys.
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    - Jørgen - Norwegian Mopar fanatic

    1970 Plymouth 'Cuda 383 A833 8-3/4 3.23 suregrip
    http://cuda.widing.biz/
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