Kickdown linkage questions

[71bigblock]

So, for the kickdown on my carb, how much slot should there be to the rear of the car where that bar attatches?  I converted from 2 to 4 bbl, and now I need to make a longer bar, but I dont know how much slot there should be.  Also, when idling, where should the kickdown rod be?  All the way towards the front I would assume?  Till it hits or something? 

If anyone can make any sense of this, that would be great.   

[Chryco Psycho]

At idle the spring should pull the linkage forward , at WOT the linkage should be forced all the way back , the slot needs to be long enough to allow the linkage to reack both positions

[71bigblock]

At idle the spring should pull the linkage forward , at WOT the linkage should be forced all the way back , the slot needs to be long enough to allow the linkage to reack both positions

WOT?    Educate me...   

[4Cruizn]

WOT?    Educate me...   

WOT =  Wide Open Throttle   

[MyMopar]

I think it might be best to adjust it at WOT.  Go to WOT and move the linkage all the way back until it stops.  Then thread in/out the slot so that it engages the stud which holds it wide open at WOT.
Once that is set, get the spring to pull the linkage forward, so that at idle the linkage is all the way forward resting.
In reality I think as soon (or shortly thereafter) the stud on the carb should engage the slot and start moving the linkage shortly after off idle.

Now I'm not 100% on this and hopefully Chryco will clear it up, but it has been covered more in depth if you do a search.  I currently use a BPE TV cable and it is 1000% better.

[71bigblock]

Ok, more questions.  In this professionally drawn and very intricate diagram I drew, pretend that is the kickdown bar.  The throttle stud is obviously in the slot.  Now, at idle, where should that stud be?  All the way to the right of the slot?

Right now the transmission is acting really weird.  It wont kickdown (I'm sure I have it adjusted wrong) and once it shifts into 2nd (its at about 10-12 MPH, wayy to soon I'm told.  It should be more like 18-20?) its clunks in nice, but then it disengages for a second, and then starts pulling again.  Shifting into third is fine, but again, too soon.  I dont think its the actual tranny, because it worked fine before I put this carb on and started messing with things. 

Third, on the kickdown band adjustment, how far do I back off the small bolt?  I backed it off about one full turn, and re-tightened it.  It was wayyy loose. 

  if you can understand any of this.  I need TTMan to the rescue.   

[tactransman]

Very good drawing by the way,how about some pics of what you have and how it is set up?

[71bigblock]

Very good drawing by the way,how about some pics of what you have and how it is set up?

Ignore the finish on the bar I made, its not finished.   

I made some extensions to the original 2 bbl bracket.  Now that I look at it from this view, it looks like I may need to bend them down, everything looks too high.   

[tactransman]

So you cannot adjust it to where it does not shift out too quick?  Because what you have looks like it should work when set right. What MyMopar said is pretty well right on.

[Bullitt-]

OE '73 340 some adjustments along the way but to the best of my recolectoin this is how it has always looked.

[71bigblock]

So you cannot adjust it to where it does not shift out too quick?  Because what you have looks like it should work when set right. What MyMopar said is pretty well right on.

I did it exactly how he said.  I made it so that at WOT, the kickdown linkage wouldnt go back any more, and set it there.  Thats when it was shifting all crazy.  I'm going to try it how bullit has it now, with the carb stud to the rear of the slot at idle.  I would try it, but its been raining for a week and a half.   

Thanks guys.  If it clears up I could mess with it more.