which bracket to order?update, parts in,Q bout kickdown

[RUSTY Cuda]

holly 3310 carb,360/727 combo.
All brackets I see at summit refer to 4000 series the ones that look good are  first hly20-7 u bracket & 2 bolts, the second is edl-8021....... listed under chrysler,727 & early holly, same u bracket & bolts & one added piece, looks like an extension for something, is that for the kickdown?
second pic is generic return spring bracket, that should work ? mine is long gone.
Which should I order? Thanks Rich.

[matt63]

Not sure but if your willing to spend a few more bucks (okay, maybe more than a few) and don't mind going away from the stock look I would consider the Lokar throttle cable, kickdown cable and bracket.  I've put them on 2 cars and they work great (727 and 4 speed) http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/tc_kd.htm

[Chryco Psycho]

20-7 is the part you need for a holley carb

[RUSTY Cuda]

My throttle cable was extended with a home made piece, if i take it out I have to clamp down the cable itself(after the metal sleeve) also have to shorten my kick down rod to keep it from falling foward on deceleration?
1st pic is with ext off. second pic is as close to the book as I can get it, ext on throttle back in, kick down rod on outside (seemed way out of line on the inside) bolt in rod to shorten it & keep it from falling foward, only prob I see is it looks like it will start moving with the throttle, no play?
Looked at my other car(3rd pic) yes it's out of line & it also looks like it will move as soon as you hit the throttle, is that correct(it's a different set up & probably also messed with over the years)

[patrick]

    Hello Rust Cuda, I might be mistaken but, wont that little nut and bolt gizmo you have in your kickdown lever make your kickdown go way too far back? Might stop your throttle short, Might hurt the tranny. I also see your kickdown is adjusted all the way. With mine, also adjusted all the way, I have a spring to help it come back forward. Otherwise, in drive, my tranny will only shift from 1st to 2nd, then just kind of hang there. I forgot were I had that spring while swapping the Edelbrock for a new Holley. After looking at your post last night, I had to go look at mine to see if the throttle was pushing the kickdown all the way. It was, without the nut and bolt gizmo obstructing the slider. Just wondering, Pat

[Bullitt-]

Pic of my OE '73 kickdown...hope it helps.

[RUSTY Cuda]

I'm not sure, the car is not road worthy yet, thats the only way it looks even close, I'm thinkin if I need a bolt to shorten the rod a carrige bolt might make it smoother. there is also a spring down by the tranny that pulls that lever foward, every car i look at the springs are in a different place.
Bullit your's looks similar to my 74, also looks like kickdown starts moving as soon as you hit the throttle, now my car had no linkage at all, bought that setup off ebay, all looks like factory stuff, maybe it's just that rod , might be too long? Thanks,Rich.
Hmmm ,maybe once I determine the right spot for the bolt I could remove it & just weld a bead across the opening in the rod

[Bullitt-]

Rusty, I have seen several setups with the bolt added which I think must be to make up for differences in OE to aftermarket carbs or adapting different model hardware to work in a given application. The kick-down pivot appears to be straight up & down so you may try adjusting your bolt to get that. The kick-down adjustment is meant to be made at the flattened rod to the rear of the pivot. Very important that the kick-down allows carb. to fully open.  My springs are in the original location.

[RUSTY Cuda]

Thanks for the #'s 
My pivot might be slightly foward, I think the throttle does open fully, but now that i have the length the rod should be I can readjust & see what I get. Thanks! Rich.
Oh dang, I may not be able to go by that, the hi rise & adapter are changing that distance, well I'll check that its up straight & the throttle opens fully at least!