Author Topic: sub frame connectors question  (Read 3469 times)

Offline thelittles

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Re: sub frame connectors question
« Reply #15 on: July 28, 2007 - 01:21:51 PM »
Us Car Tool actually calls for installing their connectors on a Rotisserie.  Look at the link. Shows detailed installation instructions.  This is for their B-body but they also show the e-body being welded from a rotisserie also and do not mention anything about being level.  For myself I think I will just be sure that the frame is in an at rest state.  I do not want to lock in any foreign stress. 

http://www.uscartool.com/Bframeconn/index.html

http://www.uscartool.com/Eframeconn/index.html




Offline Mopar_Mudder

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Re: sub frame connectors question
« Reply #16 on: July 31, 2007 - 01:26:09 PM »
Can someone tell me when the sub frame connectors are needed, at what point. Guess I am asking if this is something that I should be thinking about on my Hemi Cuda, it will probably get a 472 crate engine and other wise be rebuilt as an original car. Mainly a street driver, may be at the track a couple of times a year.
1971 Hemi Cuda

2005 SRT-10 Regular Cab Flame Red.   12.771 @ 109.67 <-----Time Slip --Video
Mopar: Headers, Exhaust, Ram Air, ECM

2008 3500 Mega Cab Dually, Resistal Edition

Offline thelittles

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Re: sub frame connectors question
« Reply #17 on: August 01, 2007 - 10:26:36 PM »
You will feel the difference when you drive.  Mostly when you punch it.  The body tends to twist or shudder slightly.  Also adding this will greatly help your resell value.  If done correctly you will have a very valuable upgrade specially for a Hemi.
 

Offline Chlngrcrzy

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Re: sub frame connectors question
« Reply #18 on: October 07, 2007 - 02:35:20 PM »
To weld in the new subframe connectors, do you have to cut out the old? Or does it lay over the top? My underside is relatively rust free and appears real solid. If i am doing a complete restor, should i go ahead and put sub frame connectors and torque boxes in, even if it doesn't appear i need them. I am doing the work myself, and hope to have a 440 in it someday. :working:

Offline Lunchbox

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Re: sub frame connectors question
« Reply #19 on: October 07, 2007 - 07:00:39 PM »
To weld in the new subframe connectors, do you have to cut out the old?

There are no subframes form the factory, thats why people add them. The US Tool are nice and would be what I would use since they follow the profile of the floor. There are other styles that you need to cut the floor and again others that use tubes that clear the profiles in the floors.

Lunch


Offline HP2

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Re: sub frame connectors question
« Reply #20 on: October 07, 2007 - 07:04:03 PM »
IMO, everyone needs torque boxes or subframe connectors at a minimum. Both are even better.

To demonstrate, while you car is in the garage, put a floor jack under the left front wheel and jack it up until that tire is off the ground. Continue going up until a second tire comes off the ground, then back it off just enough to put the second lifting tire back onto the ground. Now step back and look at your car. This is how much it can flex. Now try to open and close the drivers side door. This is why additional bracing is nice to have. This twist you have just introduced has nothing to do with horsepower. That is simply how much movement you car can absorb, which means under power, that is power is being absorbed by the car and not being put to the wheels.

Challengercrazy, if you car already has connectors in it, then no need to cut them out to put new ones in, just don't put new ones in. However, I suspect we are thinking two separate things. Subframe connectors are a boxed unit running parallel to the sill from the torsion bar cross member to the front leaf spring mount area.

nivvy

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Re: sub frame connectors question
« Reply #21 on: October 07, 2007 - 07:12:03 PM »
Why not just put the car on 4 car ramps and the car is under load  :working: