Volare help

[Hopalong]

I was helping a friend out with his 79 volare and have run into a snag.  Originally, the problem was with the altenator.  It was putting out like 18 volts, and cooked the fusible link.  He replaced the altenator, and replaced the fusible link with an in-line fuse (30 amp).  The car runs okay now, until you turn on all the accessories (lights, brake lights, turn signal, blower motor for heat, radio), then the fuse will blow.  The car seems to be okay if it is run with just a few things going (lights, brake lights).  A voltmeter at the battery shows 15.04 volts while the car is running, however, the ammeter in the car is always showing discharge.  The ammeter goes down more when the accessories are turned on.  We went through the whole car looking for a wiring problem but did not find one.  Also pulled out the dash cluster but did not find anything there either.  Any ideas?

[Bullitt-]

If I understand how the voltage regulator works it senses amperage draw on the system & turns on the secondary side of the alternator, which sounds like what is happening. Then the amp meter should show charge so there has to be a dead short drawing amps. The only other thing I can think of that sucks that kind of power would be the starter, the starter relay could be stuck causing it to run but I think that would show up when you turned the ignition off.

[426HEMI]

When the fuse link fried it could have shorted out some wires.  Just think of the heat that was there to fry the fuse link.  Did you check the switches?  Did you check the grounds?  just a few things to check.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Replacing your voltage regulator should only set you back about $20. That's where I would start. I'm not sure what the fuseable links were rated at, but maybe it was more than 30 amps. 


   Mike

[Chryco Psycho]

I would start checking around the ammeter , a lot of current flows through it & if it is not reading Charge sometyhing is wrong with it

[Hopalong]

Thanks guys!  I don't know which is worse - Working on a 79 Volare, or caring about if it runs right at all.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Thanks guys!  I don't know which is worse - Working on a 79 Volare, or caring about if it runs right at all.

I'm just curious. What size engine?


  Mike

[HP2]

Thanks guys!  I don't know which is worse - Working on a 79 Volare, or caring about if it runs right at all.

Oh, I don't know, my old F body runs pretty good. How about mid 11s at 120.

[JS27N0B]

I was helping a friend out with his 79 volare and have run into a snag.  Originally, the problem was with the altenator.  It was putting out like 18 volts, and cooked the fusible link.  He replaced the altenator, and replaced the fusible link with an in-line fuse (30 amp).  The car runs okay now, until you turn on all the accessories (lights, brake lights, turn signal, blower motor for heat, radio), then the fuse will blow.  The car seems to be okay if it is run with just a few things going (lights, brake lights).  A voltmeter at the battery shows 15.04 volts while the car is running, however, the ammeter in the car is always showing discharge.  The ammeter goes down more when the accessories are turned on.  We went through the whole car looking for a wiring problem but did not find one.  Also pulled out the dash cluster but did not find anything there either.  Any ideas?

First off, voltage will not cook the fusible link, only amperage will do that. Second, you need much higher protection like a fuse link again, as alternators will probably put out at least 60 amps and possibly as high as 80. Your voltage seems ok with the engine running so I would up the fused value as 30 amps will not cut it.

[426HEMI]

   Amps flow is what you have to worry about.

[Hopalong]

It's a 225 /6.  It has a low rated altenator (like 42 amps).  So maybe a 40 amp fuse would be better?