It's not so much out of round, as it may not be exactly 90° to the bell housing flange. Think of it as building a house on a hilly lot. First you have to level things, then form up and pour the foundation. Mess those two up, and the rest of the house will suffer over time, even if it does get built and someone moves in. The basic deal on a V8 is teh crank must be 90° to the bell's mating surface, the bores have to be 90° to that centerline, and the decks have to be parallel to that centerline. Out of round affect bearing crush and fit. Out of alignment with each other, or out of parallel with respect to the decks, means more stress on the crank and rods, harmonics that do weird things like torque convertor and/or bellhousing bolts loosening up, input bearings, pilot bearing, shifting and clutch problems, and it all translates to lost power output and shorter life, not even considering the effects on cylinder to cylinder compression ratios from the installed heights of the pistons. You cant measure that with a straight edge, and if you found .0019" shift from #1 and 5 to the three center, I would call that unacceptable. By factory spec it would be fine. I build as far beyond that as I can...lol. Laso, it is crutial that each bearing bore have zero taper accross the saddle and cap. Because the bearing will mimic the housing its in when torqued. Taper on teh crank is bad, taper on teh bearing is the same bad, and again, unless you have a dial bor gage, torque the caps, and then measure several points accross the bore, you dont know if it's tapered. I'd bet yours have some taper on at least #1, and that's why you are coming up with the three center ones being "out". In any case, it's $150 to correct. Why would you not spend $150 if your spending $4K+ on even a budget build? And as I said, the modern machines use the bell housing and the crank and cam centerlines to properly index the other operations. So if that is off, it makes it impossible for anything else to be "on" down the line.