Removing Strut Rod

[ChallengerHK]

After threatening to do it for months, I've started work on the front end upgrade.  Pulled about half the passenger side tonight, and I'm wondering, "how can I remove the strut rod from the LCA?" It looks like there should be a rolled pin at the front side of the strut rod, but it wasn't there, and consequently the front end came loose and the rear end is still attached to the control arm.

Oddly enough, it didn't look like there was a snap ring in the torsion bar either. I rebuilt this whole thing, to stock specs, about 20 years ago, and although I remember having various troubles I'm sure I put the snap ring back in. Do these things commonly just disappear?

[Chryco Psycho]

you need to pinch the strut rod in a vice or something to hold it while you spin the nut off the rear of the strut rod unless you have an impact & air
the T bar clips stay in place unless they were not seated into the groove in the socket properly

[ChallengerHK]

Thanks, CP. I've got a compressor and impact wrench and a vise. For the compressor, the rod is pretty much free-spinning at this point, so I don't think there would be anything to keep it secure while the impact wrench worked the nut. For the vise, is marring the surface not a problem? (I don't care about the appearance, just the functionality.) I've already put vise grips on it, but it still turned.

[Chryco Psycho]

grabbing it with a vice or vice grips is OK , try to minimise the damage but it will not fail liek a T bar can

[HP2]

I agree. I just grab them with vise grips. Since they are in tension and not torsion, the marks aren't detrimental like they would be on  a t-bar, but certainly try to minimize them.

[ChallengerHK]

Thanks, CP and HP. I did the vise grip thing last night, with no luck. I hosed the nut down with liquid wrench to let it sit overnight. My current strategy is to wrap the strut with tightly strentched rubber tie-down straps then clamp that in the bench vise.  We'll see what happens.

[73EStroker]

If you are replacing the rubber bushings as well here is what I do with those stubborn nuts etc. I heat them with a propane torch until they start to change to a darker colour. Just heat on to the threads and nut only. You won't damage the rod or nut as it will not heat them red hot. Then whilst the nut is cooling down spray some penetrating oil on them but watch out it may flash and ignite the pemetrating oil or it may smoke a lot. Make sure the torch is off though otherwise you will have a fire. Wait until it cools down then it is like just above finger tight. I have rescued many parts this way.

[ChallengerHK]

Thanks, 73E.  I'll put that on my list of things to try.  I think a friend of mine up the street will have a propane torch I can borrow.

[ChallengerHK]

Well, I tried the bungee+bench vise idea.  It worked ... just not the way I wanted it to.  Damned cheap bench vise.

[FJ5_440]

I have found that a pipe wrench works better than a vise grips, because they grip tighter as the rod tries to rotate.  They can leave a pretty good set of marks if you arent careful though.

[ChallengerHK]

I thought about a pipe wrench, and that's just what I was afraid of.  Frankly, the bench vise with the bungee was working real well until the bench vise gave loose. At least the strut wasn't turning at all.  I may buy a good bench vise and try again, although I think I'm going to try the propane torch route first.

[FJ5_440]

Maybe try the pipe wrench with the bungee cord.

[Chryco Psycho]

tighten the nut back on & clean & lube the threads , repeat as nessisary
 I have broken vices like that as well

[ChallengerHK]

Well, I tried tightening the nut, but it was jammed tight.  Finally, after repeating heatings, hosing with Liquid Wrench and a new pair of vise grips, it's off. Unfortunately, the threads are a little the worse for wear.  Luckily I'm going with heavy duty struts anyway.