Vacuum At Idle

[AMXguy]

Got me, you both make a good argument . he needs my cam specs, vac readings, trans type, rear end gearing,induction and everything to reach an optimum curve so it sounds as if he knows what he's doing. he says he's set up Mopars for years this way and guys love it, I'm skeptical myself but for $69 I sent it to him to set up,  until the roads clear and I can drive it I can't say .

[Chryco Psycho]

I would ask other customers who have used his stuff , some of my customers have gone back to a stock dist , while his sits in a box

[70RT/SE]

I have this set up and it worked out great. If your car is mostly a street car you can benefit from vacuum adv. When the engine is lightly loaded, such as at idle and when cruising, manifold vacuum is high and ignigtion timing can be advanced without causing detonation. There are only benefits to running vacuum advance on the street, and no draw backs when the system is properly adjusted and working as it should. You experience lower combustion chamber temps, better part throttle response, MPG increase, ect

[rusty dodge]

His tuning guide describs setting the vacuum advance up that way (manifold vacuum). he set mine up without vacuum advance, but i have recently added it back on, and will experement with it on the manifold instead. Kind of makes sence to set it up on the manifold, with todays gas, my engine idles smoother if i set the initial advance up higher than 17 degrees. But then it gets hard to start and kicks back on the starter.His way, you can set the initial at 15 or so, easy to start when hot, then at idle manifold vacuum brings it up (adjustable amount?) and she idles smooth.

[LAA66]

I forgot to add I'm at over 3000 feet elevation too, so it sounds as if I'm OK. thanks
 
 Chryco I'm not going to argue with you because I'm sure you've forgotten more than I know but maybe his idea works ok if the distributor is curved for it? I don't know but after arguing with him he made it quite clear that the way he sets them is you give it about 16 degrees initial, hook your vac advance up to the manifold for a total of about 34. then as you crack the throttle your vac drops putting you back to your 16,  then the mechanical takes over until you level off and the vac kicks back in. maybe it's just a different way of getting the same place?

 I was told the same. Manifold vacuum.

 I Really Hate to say it Chryco, but my FBO setup (w/recurve) works way better then the old Mopar Orange box.

[Chryco Psycho]

Glad it works for you 

[dodge freak 2]

I bet it does-that box was around over 30 years ago, 35 by now. This gasoline today is not like the type that was around back then also.

However, take a MSD box, say the older 7al type, put a timing computer on it-where you can adjust the timing slope and rpms and even have a high speed retard-a HVC coil, you have one very good set up that will idle your motor cold-in gear-with no choke-outside today in the winter.

Now yes, all new part-7al is not made anymore but it was like $300, timing computer $250, HVC coil $140, well with tax, shipping it be over $700. Not everybody can or wants to swing that but thats the set up-IMO-for a great street-strip motor, not doing some "black magic" on stuff that was designed around when color TV's came out, ha ha.

If people tell you they had MSD and had problems with it, I believe it. Those sparks are very strong and will find ground or misfire with weak spark plug wires, weak dist cap-needs all brass inside, so thats more cash right there, $75 wires, $25 cap and rotor, I like non-resister plugs too, as for the dist, you take Mopar lean burn fix plate and weld the timing plates or use a lean burn dist, its good enough I believe, works fine for me for years.