Ghost in the machine

[moparmaniac59]

Help!!!!
I think I got a ghost in my ignition system. I have a post here on my stupid coil. I went to swap carbs on my 440 from an Edelbrock to a Demon. The Edelbrock was running fine when I took it off. Put on the Demon & the car wouldn't start. I tried various adjustments on the carb. Ran down the battery, threw a tantrum  and snatched off the Demon & put the Edelbrock back on. Car still wouldn't start! I started doin some diggin around and pulled the coil wire. Oil ran out of the boot. Bad coil (MSD Blaster II)!! Bought new MSD Blaster II, installed it & Shazam. car roared to a start. Drove for about 45 mins to cruise and charge the batry. The next day I started the car, took off out of the neighborhood, car died again & acted like no fire. Just plain dead. Wouldn't even sputter. I figured maybe a bad coil out of the box?? . Bought new coil (MSD Blaster II), installed on car, car roared to a start. Drove off to church & back. parked car. Went to start car today. Started fine, put it in gear and it flat died like before. No spark. I took both coils and checked resistance. I have a data sheet (from this web site) that says a standard coil, terminal to terminal (+ to -) should be .75 to .81 ohms. Hard to read that low (accurately) on an analogue meter, but both coils read around .50-.75 ohms. And the secondary which is from either terminal to the center post is supposed to be 10,000 to 11,000 ohms. I had approx 5,000 on both coils. Not sure if this info applies to the MSD Blaster series coils. Are my coils fried?? I have an MSD series 6 ignition box. Could my problem be a bad MSD box? Or are my coils toast? And if something is frying my coils, what could it be?? What would cause this intermittant problem?? Any thoughts here?? I am clueless as to if my coils are fried? or if  have issues elsewhere or both? thanks guys!! Carlisle here I come?? I hope I can get this fixed before Carlisle!!

                                                        Matt B.

[Chryco Psycho]

check the gap inside the dist , if you are using a Mopar dist you need approx .008

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Are you using a ballast resistor?

[moparmaniac59]

I am using a 4 prong ballast resistor. It checks OK cold. I'll have to check the distributor. Thanks for the info!!

                                                               Matt B.

[moparmaniac59]

Hey Chryco,
I was thinking about your advice and started to wonder what gap you were talking about. Gap between what & what?? I am not sure if my dist. is from ma Mopar or an aftermarket one?? Just wanted to make sure I understood what you were referring to!! Thanks. ! HATE gremlins!!

                                                            Matt B.

[miketyler]

assuming electronic ign, proably gap between the reluctor and pickup?   

[MEK-Dangerfield]

assuming electronic ign, proably gap between the reluctor and pickup?   

   Yes.   

[Bullitt-]

Replace your ballast resistor.  $5.00 part that you need a spare of anyway. They can bench test OK & then break down under load/heat.

[ntstlgl1970]

When the car doesn't start: If you are still using the stock chrysler style distributor plug (two wire with one side exposed when unplugged) you can scratch test the exposed pin on the engine harness side to a good ground with the key on and the coil wire unplugged from the cap and (don't hold it though with an MSD!) near ground (say a 1/2" away) and it should fire the coil with a good blue spark. If it does, you know that everything up to the distributor on the primary side of the ignition is good. If you get no spark, then you know there is a power, ground or module/msd box problem. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's pretty common on chrysler magnetic distributors for the pickup coil to fail or go "open" with temperature changes.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Just to show I have ESP and know what is going to happen next... Check your distributor.      



   Mike

[hemiken]

  You will most likely find a clip has let go and the internals are rubbing against the bottom of the housing..............

[moparmaniac59]

OK,
There's at least a whole page missing here on this thread.....So an update. After much ado, I finally finished chasing gremlins!! It wasn't a single point failure.  I had pics up here of my self destructed factory distributor. Mechanically, it ate itself and the entire distributor was full of powdered pot metal from the spring retaining screws riding on the dist. housing. I replaced it with a new MSD pro-billet distributor. car still wouldn't start!! . I had a sporadic firing MSD6A box, a bad (semi working) negative battery cable, a bad ground, a bad 12 volt switched source for the MSD box and coil issues (coil juice). I did some ranting, raving, jumping up and down, banged my head on the hood latch several times, I even talked to myself & occasionally answered. I got so mad I even bought a new MSD 6AL box from Advance Auto (now that's MAD for me). Replaced about 1/4 mile of wiring, stuck the key in the ignition & VAROOOOM!!. It started!! So now I have a new MSD 6AL box, a new MSD pro-billet distributor, a new MSD coil, new wires and plugs, some new wiring, a new alternator, new ballast resistor. A few new bumps and bruises & do I smell burning rubber?? It's alive HA-HA...Alive.....Alive I say!! Well, it's looking good for Carlisle. Don't talk to me about wiring for at least 6 months!! The alternator had nothing to do with the car not starting, I took the 100 pound boat anchor 100 amp alternator & A/C system out of the car and redid a few things. The huge alternator came with the 440 motor which came out of a late 70's RV. Thanks for the input and letting me rant!!! I think I am hallucinating, I think I see a Mopar running??

                                                       Matt B.

[422STROKER]

Glad to see you got it fixed.  Has to feel good.

Tom