Rocky Mountain Dashes

[Carlwalski]

LOL! Are you kidding?? Air/fuel saves engines and is probably the most vital gauge in there. Tells you a lot about how the engine is running. Anyhow, it's the cluster set up I paid for, any and all gauges can be swapped to suit.

[Timmy C]

First off the dash looks great.  I agree with stroker though.  The air fuel ratio gauge you got is basically just a light show.  That one will just dance around, and you won't have any idea what ratio you are trully running at.  Look into getting a wideband air fuel ratio gauge and you will know what you are running.  I don't know if autometer makes a good wideband gauge or not.  I have used an AEM UEGO on turbo applications with great results before.

[tactransman]

 

[Devil]

I made my own dash.  It isn't super customized, but I like it!



Ryan

[tactransman]

Ain't NOTHING wrong with your dash! 

[nivvy]

this is what you need carl.......... same light show but with the actual air fuel ratio mix........... 

now with your light show guage can you tell me your actual air/fuel mix     your welcome........... 

[Carlwalski]

Carl - inbetween the 6 gauges you have 2 circles

red 1 is break light?

white 1 is?

Whats that massive violet circle? (high beam?)

The  little circle top left of mph and top right of rpm = blinkers?


Air/Fuel ratio...

Running a carburettor will that tell me how the carby is going out of tune (more fuel, or more air not enough fuel) to help with knowing which way to adjust the carburettor... or am i wishfull thinking


Uhm...

yeah

Whats the red switch on the very left?

What are the rest of them?

Can you tell me top to bottom what they all are + what the litle gauges all are? Cant see propperly...

O yeah, what the hell is a wideband?

Thanks mate.

Looks good 

Left-to-right:

1st Knob = Lights
2nd Knob = Wipers
3rd knob = Misc (unsure yet)
4th Knob = Trunk (up) / Hood Release (down)
5th Knob = Electric Exhaust Cutouts
6th Toggle = Engine Kill Switch

All gauges are Sport Comp Autometers. Classic and black.

5" MPH Speedometer
5" Tachometer 8k

2-1/16" - Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Trans Temp
2-1/16" - Fuel Gauge, Water Temp and Air Fuel Ratio

Blue lens shift light between the 5" cluster, flush mounted and out of the way (not on show). Either side are the left and right hand amber indicators lights. Red light in the 6 gauges is park brake on/off and the white light is the reverse light. Will more than likely add another small red engine warning light between the 5" gauges. No need for volts, it's not major and wasn't going to take place of the other 6 which are. Plus we discussed that most modern head units display the cars voltage read out on the head unit with a push of the button. I'm very happy.

Devil - Nice set up mate. I tried to go for the factory look but being as mines a "custom factory" style car and since Lucy is stock I wanted to have this a real drivers car with all the gauges I need. I tried to do the 3 pods to keep it as close to possible like the 4 in the rallye but the gauges are better off being individual IMO.

Thanks Stroker, at this stage the one I have is suffice and of the same style as the other gauges (Sport Comp) but I will look into that style which gives the actual reading. At this stage it's the furthest thing from my mind lol.

Thanks Terry and everyone else. It was suppose to be a warning but RMD finally get it together.


Below is the 3 x 5" look to kind of keep it factory but I preferred to have the gauges separate.

[Slotts]

Wow, Carl. I guess I have mixed emotions with this thread.

First the Funk Brothers, dba Zimmerzllc and now RMD.   I can only hope this one turns out better than the last.

The dash does look way over the top!!!

My best on the end results!

Slotts

[Carlwalski]

Yup but Madeline is an over the top kind of girl. Well, not really but the dash and seats are the only improvements over factory and it's only over the top vs. the factory, otherwise all gauges are needed and used. Over the top isn't what I'd call it. Over the top would be 5 tachs, 3 engine temp gauges and all of them visible to everyone. The only reason is for driver control and comfort, not for show. I want to be in the best seating position, tilt column, nice wheel, gauges and seats to really enjoy this car "enthusiastically" on the back roads. If the factory cluster and seats offered lumber support and modern standard readings I would leave it stock, stock is best but we'll do our best to keep it as stock as possible, my kind of style. 

[sleepychallenger]

shift light right? looks like it is in the perfect spot.

[Carlwalski]

Yup, as Sleepy said it's a shift light, it's a pedestal 5" tacho that we'll fabricate to sit in the cluster and we'll remove and remount the shift light in between the 2 5" gauges which are in direct view of the me whilst driving. Please tell me you know how a shift light works lol. When it hits the desired preset rpm, it flashes. Not sure on the rear wheel width, probably 295s. I'll be running 275 for street and I have 305s for when I feel the need lol.

[Carlwalski]

You set it at so you're shifting just after peak rpm/T, well, I will be. I'll be shifting around 5,800rpm. The EFI system Tim uses has a rev limiter which is set at 6,200rpm. Tim said when you drive with this engine (mine) the last thing you'll want is more rpms lol It's a torque street engine, power when you need it, not when the other guy is gone.

I'm shifting at 5,800rpm and depending on the engine and how she revs I'm guessing I'll set the shift light at 5,400-5,600rpm to allow for shift time. It's just there to help. I usually always go by listening to the rpms be ear, this is my first tacho and it's a must. Tim said trees, houses and cars go by quickly. A flash in the peripheral vision and it's time to shift. The shift light is an arson to have, the rpms are mandatory (obviously).

I won't be getting stuck into Madeline's power for a good few months. Get use to the car, power and handling first, otherwise you're asking for trouble. I'll just start off shifting nice and early in the rpms and gradually build up from there. Tim breaks all his engines in at the shop but I'll still run it softly for a couple of thousand miles, better to be safe than sorry.

Hope that helps some.

[Carlwalski]

Yup, just shift as soon as the light flashes. The light won't shift at anything below it's preset shift point so I'd shift around as normal. It only comes on when you get into it. Driving the 540 around the streets won't be any different from a 340 or even a 318 it's that well behaved. When you plant the go pedal that's when things change for the better. lol Can't wait to row those first  5 gears out of the shop, I'll look like this ---->