Author Topic: TC's Leadwork  (Read 2297 times)

Offline Topcat

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Re: TC's Leadwork
« Reply #15 on: May 28, 2008 - 12:37:01 AM »
How much does the lead bars cost in US? Cheapest I've found here in Finland are ~8usd. The ones you are using look pretty much the same as I have here. The brand I'm using is Bera.

What are you using to smooth the lead down? Previously I used very rough file, which was supposed to be used with lead, but I found out that it was way too slow tool for me. Now I've been using respirator & electric angle  grinder (not sure if the term is right) combo with 80 grit sanding discs. It is fast to use altough it usually leads into some waves on a larger surface, but it should cover up with light layer of regular bondo.

I bought 3 bars. Don't remember the brand name at ACE hardware. I think it was about 20-25 dollars. 50/50 tin lead mix. I bought a cheese grater type file but yesterday, I bought the better type from Eastwood. I wore a respirator also and used a roloc disc for final sanding. Then wet ragged the car and did a super sweep all around. All the lead work has is less than 1/8 inch body filler to cover now for final finish. I'll do that after it goes to the blaster making sure he knows to keep the nozzle away from those areas.
Mike, Fremont, CA.





Offline Topcat

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Re: TC's Leadwork
« Reply #16 on: May 28, 2008 - 12:50:47 AM »
Final results.
Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline Rare_T_A

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Re: TC's Leadwork
« Reply #17 on: May 29, 2008 - 10:42:52 AM »
   :2thumbs:  The lead work looks great!!!!!!!!!!!!    My question is what is the benifit of doing it? All I've ever done on those joints is weld them and cover it with fiberglass evercoat.
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Offline Topcat

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Re: TC's Leadwork
« Reply #18 on: May 29, 2008 - 05:39:00 PM »
To mig weld in the whole seam would take a lot of wire or rod. Not to mention the amount of heat put onto a smaller area for a longer period isn't very good on the metal. Metal becomes fatigued from too much heat exposure. Leading in isn't nearly as hot as welding in the seam. It is about 300-400 degrees vs. about 1200 degrees soaking in to blend in a fat bead of weld onto the seam area.

Fiberglass or body filler can't hold out without cracking eventually. I've been there done that on the sail panel area.
It doesn't transfer the stress of torsional body movement on the outside skin like lead filled in.

Over time, the body filler began hairline cracks spreading all over.
Then I also had the telegraph effect where the bondo just stood out like a big band aid on the side of the quarter panel.

I know some here will say this isn't true but I tried metal bondo, regular bondo and they all looked like crap later. I just know what i've seen and I ain't gonna repeat that again. Lead for me is the only option.

Mike, Fremont, CA.


Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: TC's Leadwork
« Reply #19 on: May 29, 2008 - 06:47:42 PM »
Mike, 

Check this video out for helpful tips.  Don is using a TURBO TIP which my plumber friend uses to solder and silver solder water pipes. It's all in the tinning and taking your time.

Rob

Rob

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My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline Topcat

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Re: TC's Leadwork
« Reply #20 on: May 29, 2008 - 09:11:40 PM »
Thanks Rob,

Lead bars just went up a lot recently. I'll get one ASAP.

Looks like this is the critter.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Propane-MAPP-Hand-Torch-TURBO-TORCH-TX-504_W0QQitemZ200226338153QQihZ010QQcategoryZ111477QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
« Last Edit: May 29, 2008 - 10:28:29 PM by Topcat »
Mike, Fremont, CA.