Author Topic: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL  (Read 1804 times)

Offline t1971Chally

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 414
HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« on: August 17, 2008 - 11:26:16 AM »
Hello everyone,

Need some help here.  I am in the middle of changing out my dash harness on my 71 Challenger 440 Magnum.  Pulled the dash with no problems and I have the new harness almost in.  I have one plug that has 4 female slots, 3 of the 4 match up with the plug on the back of the dash while the 4th is on the opposite side that it should be (see pics).  My question is this:
Is it suppose the that way?   :banghead:
or
Do I cut the wire and tie it in the old fashion way?   

I would tell you what the plug is for but I honestly do not know.  It is located just above the heater controls on the front of the dash.  I am assuming is has something to do with the wipers or lights.   

I appreciate any help you guys can provide as I am STUCK!!!! :dunno:

Ted
Ted
1971 Dodge Challenger 440 Magnum
:cheers:




Offline CHUCKS71

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1123
  • "IF YOUR NOT FIRST YOUR LAST"
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #1 on: August 17, 2008 - 12:38:24 PM »
I wouldn't cut anything. It looks like the wiper switch plug maybe for a 2spd switch.
:burnout::22yikes::burnout:    www.ronpaul2008.com
71 Challenger 4spd   www.conservativepunk.com
03 Ram diesel 6spd    http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m222/chucknutz/1971%20Challenger/

Offline JayBee

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2477
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #2 on: August 17, 2008 - 12:57:28 PM »
That's just how that plug is suppose to look. On a 2 speed wiper switch one of those female terminals doesn't go anywhere and there's one blank prong on the switch itself. Somewhere I wrote down the connections before I took my dash apart last winter. I could try and find it if you like.

John
John

1970 Barracuda convertible
2014 Toyota Avalon

Offline t1971Chally

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 414
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #3 on: August 17, 2008 - 01:23:37 PM »
Hey guys,

Thanks for the help!  So should I just plug it in and leave as is?  Jaybee, I will take any help you can provide. 

PS. the plug on the old wiring harness is the same way so I am assuming it was that way from factory.

Any ideas?????

Thanks again....
Ted
Ted
1971 Dodge Challenger 440 Magnum
:cheers:

Offline JayBee

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2477
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #4 on: August 17, 2008 - 01:47:20 PM »
Ted

I don't know what your car is or the type of motor/switch you have, all I can give you is the way mine's connected. It's a 1970 Barracuda with a 2 speed wiper motor & switch; and the motor, switch & harness are still the original. Here's what my sheet says:

Back of the switch letters:

A = Red wire from grey connector
F2 = Green wire from grey connector
B/U = empty
P = Dark blue
B = Pink
H = Brown with tracer

The solid brown wire in the black connector doesn't go anywhere on mine. I believe I posted this info in another thread but it was just easier to type it out again. Oh, and yes, my wipers work. Good luck and let us know how you make out.

John
John

1970 Barracuda convertible
2014 Toyota Avalon

Offline t1971Chally

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 414
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #5 on: August 18, 2008 - 08:15:37 PM »
Hey guys,

Just wanted to let you guys know I got the harness in and everything is working great with the exception of the rear side marker lights.  I know what the problem is there, I cannot get a good ground.  I can run a bare wire from the bulb housing to a good ground and it works.  However, place it in the housing and nothing. :swear:.  Not sure what to do just yet.....

Have you guys experienced this problem?  If so, what did you do?

Thanks again for the help!!!

Ted
Ted
1971 Dodge Challenger 440 Magnum
:cheers:

Offline 72hemi

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4812
  • MEMBER SINCE JANUARY 2006
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #6 on: August 18, 2008 - 08:18:09 PM »
In a situation like that I usually run a new ground wire from the bulb housing to a solid body ground.
1972 Dodge Challenger 340 6 Pack 4-speed
1996 Dodge Viper GTS Coupe

Offline t1971Chally

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 414
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #7 on: August 18, 2008 - 09:21:58 PM »
72Hemi,

Thanks for the help!  I guess thats what I will have to do.....

Ted
Ted
1971 Dodge Challenger 440 Magnum
:cheers:

Offline ShelbyDogg

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5007
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #8 on: August 25, 2008 - 10:12:32 PM »
72Hemi,

Thanks for the help!  I guess thats what I will have to do.....

Ted
Commom problem on Challengers too.  If you sand or file a small spot on the socket housing, you can solder a hidden wire to each socket then hide it in the harness and ground it on the corner somewhere. I do it for my front turn signals too.

Rob
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline t1971Chally

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 414
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #9 on: August 26, 2008 - 05:31:45 AM »
Hi all,

Thanks for the info on the rear side marker lights.  I ran a temporary ground from the bulb housing to a solid ground on the rear tail panel and for now seems to be working great.  I plan on revisiting this issue and trying to hid the wire (Thanks Rob).

You guys are awesome!!!

Ted
Ted
1971 Dodge Challenger 440 Magnum
:cheers:

Offline 73EStroker

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1343
Re: HELP!!! - STUCK DASH REMOVAL
« Reply #10 on: August 26, 2008 - 09:49:58 AM »
Believe it or not - when re-instaling all of the electrical equipment I sand a small part of the mounting area screws and sand where the light (or whatever) you are are mounting makes contact. Coat it with white lithim grease and you have contact for many years. This is even better than what they did at the factory when the cars were new.
Barry (Salmon Arm)