Head bolts or studs and should they both be torqued the same?

[blown74]

I've got a slight oil leak on one off my head gaskets.  Since I'm pulling of the heads should I go with new ARP bolts or ARP studs? I'm thinking studs. If I go with the ARP studs are they still torqued to 70 lbs? I'm going to torque in 3 stages following the factory sequence 40lbs to 55lbs to 70lbs

Thanks in advance

Don

[Chryco Psycho]

I believe youi can go 5 lbs higher but with alum heads it is 10 lbs less to allow for the greater expansion of the heads

[Moparal]

Not sure, but are your heads flat? Also, were they belt sanded or milled flat? a belt sander will leave certain types of hard to seal lines on the head.

Are you dry tq'ing your heads? 30 wt oil? or molly lube? tq setting are different with these 3 ways. If you use studs, the nuts only go on 1 way.

[blown74]

I can use oil or molly lube on the heads bolts / studs. One chart I have claims you reduce torque by 15 to 25% with Oil and 50% with dry film (Teflon on Moly based). Not sure about the heads but it I had to guess I would say they were milled flat. Any way to tell?

[Chryco Psycho]

straight edge & a feeler guage

[moper]

Consult ARP... you must use the right lube, and the spec will be different. I  would call ARP.

[nivvy]

Consult ARP... you must use the right lube, and the spec will be different. I  would call ARP.

 

[moper]

A quick look on the website looks like 95 foot punds with ARP lube, 125 with SAE30 WT oil. There is no allowance for material type.

[Changin Gears]

The ARP studs have a different torque not only because of the material but the fine threads of the nuts you are tightening.

[Aussie Challenger]

  I always use a washer under the head stud or nut and a lubricant ( on any performance motor). When the bolts/nuts have all been torqued down I then back-off each one 1/2 turn approx in sequence and retorque. Since doing this I haven't had a head gasket failure and usually they will go down another 1/2 turn, on race motors I do this 3 times. I believe that I get a more even distribution across the head/s, I also put a small drop of lubricant under the head bolt/nut each time I do this.   

[Changin Gears]

  I always use a washer under the head stud or nut and a lubricant ( on any performance motor). When the bolts/nuts have all been torqued down I then back-off each one 1/2 turn approx in sequence and retorque. Since doing this I haven't had a head gasket failure and usually they will go down another 1/2 turn, on race motors I do this 3 times. I believe that I get a more even distribution across the head/s, I also put a small drop of lubricant under the head bolt/nut each time I do this.   

I take this process one step farther, I wait over-night before I back off and re-torque.