Author Topic: 340 with no power  (Read 7129 times)

Offline Chryco Psycho

  • Administrator
  • C-C.com Guru
  • *****
  • Posts: 36620
  • 70 Challenger R/T SE 70 tube Chassis Cuda now sold
Re: 340 with no power
« Reply #45 on: September 04, 2008 - 02:38:47 PM »
no need to pull the engne , the front of the engine can be disassembled to check the cam timing in the car

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t




Offline Belgium Cuda

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 794
  • Living in Belgium but beeing Swedish
Re: 340 with no power
« Reply #46 on: September 06, 2008 - 05:03:55 AM »
Hello Kris, I tought these guys could help you!  :2thumbs:

//Per
1970 Challenger Convertible - to become a Hemi tribute
1968 Charger R/T 500 cui stroker

Offline SwedeFish

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 23
Re: 340 with no power
« Reply #47 on: September 13, 2008 - 01:00:03 PM »
Hello Kris, I tought these guys could help you!  :2thumbs:

//Per

 :bigsmile:

They've been great help. But unfortunately my car still has all this problems. But at least I can narrow down the search. I know now that I need new spring for my carburator. I will start there.
I haven't had time do work on the car for some time since I am in South Africa at the moment and I just hope that there wont be snow in Sweden when I get home...  :eek4:

Offline quagmire

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 567
  • Traction Impaired......
Re: 340 with no power
« Reply #48 on: September 13, 2008 - 02:40:20 PM »
I am running a 408 stroker build with many of the same parts you are running.  I am using an 800cfm Eddie carb though.  I found drilling the throttle plates to help a bit with my idle, I used a 1/8" drill bit.  Way too much of my transfer slots were exposed at idle, causing it to run bad in gear.  You can check this by removing the carb and looking at them with the throttle closed, or checking for any vacuum present at the ported vacuum port at idle speed.  Definitely change out those metering rod springs, they have to be fully seated at idle! I am also running vacuum advance connected to the manifold vac. port with a GM points B28 canister as opposed to the crappy one that comes with the MSD.  The adjustable ones aren't much better, the curves are not that hot for performance motors.  I am also using the black bushing and light blue and silver springs for the mechanical advance.  Throttle response is great, it idles excellent and I get decent mileage now too even with the 3.91's and a high stall converter.  I run 18* of initial and 36* total mechanical advance.  Vacuum advance at cruise bumps it up to 52* total. My car idles at 850 in park and 750 in gear.  It also pulls 16" in park and 12" in gear.  Hopefully this helps you too, my car used to run horrible before I started playing around with it.