driveline vibration help

[MyMopar]

So I would need to be either at 10* nose down at the diff to make the 5* difference?

So if I am 4* nose down at the pinion right now , I can technically raise the tailshaft to 1* positive and I would have the 5* difference we are after?  Am I correct in thinking this or is there another factor I am overlooking.

[Moparal]

Doesnt really take but 45 minutes or so start to finish. Maybe take a 2 degree wedge and try it going up. One way is when crusin and acc the other is down. I had to do mine twice and went 2 up and all is normal now. I went 2 down and the vibe was bad.

[ShelbyDogg]

I would try a different driveshaft and a friend's wheels and tires.

[Chryco Psycho]

I just check the angle between the driveshaft & diff , you want to be %8 nose down on the diff , more will make a vibration decellerating , less will vibe accllerating

[MyMopar]

I just check the angle between the driveshaft & diff , you want to be %8 nose down on the diff , more will make a vibration decellerating , less will vibe accllerating

So I would be better adding more diff pinion down? than using a shim plate to bring the transmission up.  I currently have 6* of wedge shims and really don't feel comfortable adding any more. 
I don't plan on pulling the axle and rewelding the spring perches until this winter.  The vib is not bad until highway speed then it is noticeable but gets wicked bad by 110 or so and if I cruise around town it really isn't noticeable.

[Moparal]

maybe pull 2 degrees out of your wedges to 4

[ShelbyDogg]

Balance your wheels and tires.

[Chryco Psycho]

try rottaing the tires & watching , I have seen BFG junk with more than 1/4" step in the tread where the belts overlap when brand new .... good qc 

[MyMopar]

maybe pull 2 degrees out of your wedges to 4

Well I ran 4* of wedge then added 2* more to get where I am at.  As a recap I was at +2* of rear pinion angle, added 4* wedge and it put me at -2*.  Added 2 more degrees of wedge and it put me at -4* of rear pinon angle.

The trans angle is -5* so I would think making a plate to raise it to a neutral 0* would do the trick for me giving me the difference I'm after.  I don't know, probably shouldn't even worry about this now anyway seeing how the driveline will be pulled for a small block set-up.  I do know this, the vibration was bad enought ot cause the rear pinon seal to start leaking    There goes my dream of a drip free car.

[Aracer]

the difference between the drive shaft & diff should be 5-7* nose down on the diff

 Tell that to Moser, they think it's nose up. Watch out for them. The tranny to drive shaft should be 2* angled up, compared to itself only and the opposite on the rear, plus 4* shims =6* @ drive shaft. You need to subtract the floor angle to read the carpenters gravity angle gauge correctly.
     Have the drive shaft balanced with new rear Spicer Dana solid U-joint, and swap zerks for Allen set screw at the trans yoke u-joint, which may not accept solids due to the larger size center body.