440hp versus non HP

[MDMoparDude]

Newb question, my cloned 440 six pack has a non hp block in it.  According to the casting numbers, it is a 70 block.  What are the differences between the HP block and the non HP block?

[Moparal]

The hp stamp and the internals of the block. The block is just as good as any hp block

[MDMoparDude]

but what are the internal differences?

[71chally416]

The HP had a different camshaft and it had a windage tray. I'm pretty sure they both had the same compression in '70.

[MDMoparDude]

could you get an HP with a 4 barrel or only with a six pack?  And what was the compression ratio? 

[71chally416]

Both. the 6-pak had those giant rods though with only 3/8" bolts.  Not sure about the comp but it was either 10 to 1 or 10.5 to 1

[MDMoparDude]

well the car was a clone, and i am pretty sure all the guy did was slap an intake and carbs on it.  I would like to set it up correctly for a six pack over the winter.  In the beginning I wanted to stroke it, but would rather set it up stock to see what they are really supposed to feel like, and wanted to know what all it entailed.  Any help with the differences and where to purchase suggestions would be great

[71chally416]

You need these>
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mop440sixpac.html
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/moparbrb1.html

If you have the one bolt cam gear you'll need this too>
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopbrbthrebo.html

If you have an un-baffeled oil pan you should either get some baffles welded in or get one of these while the pan is off>
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/streethemoil.html

[Chryco Psycho]

All 70 -71 HP 440 had the larger 6 pack rods in them with an externally balanced steel crank , flat top 10:1 pistons

[Moparal]

I have a set of 70 hp 440 rods with the pistons still on them. They are heavy. I looked to see what area you live in and it is not in your profile. You could get mine cheap, but you would still need the crank,dampner, converter/flywheel. It's a 60lb rotating mass. I really wouldn't recomend it.

[71chally416]

   Unless you want to go slower.....

[MDMoparDude]

ok what is the best path for me to go with this in your opinion

[71chally416]

At least get the cam if you want it to run like a stock 6-pac car. I've never seen a stock BB head with anything but a single spring with a dampner so I believe the springs are the same. .450" lift is hardly a radical cam. A stock 2000 GM LS-1 cam has .496" lift. 

I myself wouldn't bother changing cams unless I at least went a little bit bigger than stock. They were way under-cammed back in '70, but that's your call.

[MDMoparDude]

so add a windage tray, freshen the bottom end, and look for a cam, and i should be good?  what cam shoul i go with,

[71chally416]

You'll get a hundred different suggestions on cam choice.

The last street 440 I ran just had the old Hemi grind cam that never lost any lobes and the car did 12.20's in a stock weight Challenger body with a 4.10 Dana 60, 4 speed and 9" Firestone slicks. I just lined up the dots on the timing gears, lubed up the lifters with the supplied lube, bolted the OEM rocker shafts back on, broke it in for 25 minutes (all in an afternoon in my driveway) and drove it like that for 4 years with zero problems. I ran it at Atco about once a month. It was a rebuilt '67 440 out of a GTX and it had a Torker Intake, a 700 DP Holley and some cheapo headers along with the factory igniton kit. It had a stock type exhaust system with just the resonators in the back with the tips through the valance and It sounded mean as hell and ran great and took out more than a few big bikes on the street in the 80's and never lost to another car (Not that there was much competition then..) I did some porting on the heads mostly under the valves, but the valves were all OEM.