Need help deciding what to do

[lemming303]

I have a 340 and I plan on stroking it to 416. The problem I have is this. The block has rust in it. It's gonna have to be re-bored. I want to get this car running before I go and buy all the new stuff to stroke it, but I don't know if its worth it. If I replace the pistons now can I use the new ones for both the regular crank and then on the 4 inch crank or would I have to buy new pistons? Also, how hard would it be to change the crank later from a stock crank to a 4 inch stroker? What I'm saying is can I rebore the engine, buy new pistons and get new bearings put in the engine now, then later go in and switch just the crank? Thanks for the help.

[NoMope Greg]

Before you go buying anything, take the block to a competent machine shop and let them look at it.  If it has rust, it may not be able to be bored out.  Got any photos? - of the cylinder bores for here and the car for your  thread.

[FJ5_440]

Before you go buying anything, take the block to a competent machine shop and let them look at it.  If it has rust, it may not be able to be bored out.  Got any photos? - of the cylinder bores for here and the car for your  thread.

If the block checks out, it would be better to buy the stroker crank, rods and pistons all at the same time as a balanced assembly, and then do it once.

[lemming303]

Yeah, I haven't taken any pics yet. I need to clean the block first, its real dirty. Once I degrease the engine I will take to the machine shop. I haven't miced (sp?) the bores yet to see if it has been rebored or not. The rust doesn't look too deep. I don't have the money to buy parts right now any way.

[lemming303]

If the block checks out, it would be better to buy the stroker crank, rods and pistons all at the same time as a balanced assembly, and then do it once.

OK, I didn't think about balance. Can you buy the kit already balanced? I had planned on getting the Scat forged crank, but I haven't decided which pistons or bearings. I was thinking about Wiseco pistons or Keith Black.

[Moparal]

I'd say build your engine once. The Correct way.  Go buy a 318 for now and take the time to set your good engine up one time

[lemming303]

Yeah, it makes sense. I'm just itching to drive this car, even though thats a few months away.

[NoMope Greg]

I'd say build your engine once. The Correct way.  Go buy a 318 for now and take the time to set your good engine up one time

  Even if you mic it and it turns out it can be rebored, there's more to be concerned about that the shop can check.  Since you say this is your first project, I'm assuming you haven't had machine work done on anything before.  (Don't worry - it's my first project too and I've found the knowledge here invaluable assistance.  ) 

Anyway, they should clean it - usually called hot-tanking - to clean out all the interior passages as well as the outside.  They'll magnaflux it to check for cracks that are difficult to see with the naked eye, especially in high-stress areas.  They'll measure all the important areas for clearance and proper geometry - mic the cylinders for bore, out-of-round and taper (wider at the top than the bottom), the main bearing saddles for bore and out-of-round, etc.  And, of course, they'll give you a professional opinion if they can do anything at all with the block.  Oh, and plan on spending a bunch of money just for the machine work - probably at least $1000.

[lemming303]

Yeah, a friend of mine said theres shops around here that will do it for 6 to 800$. Do they have to machine it to find out if they can use it? I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars to have them tell me that its no good

[NoMope Greg]

No, the machine work comes after they figure out if the block is salvageable.  An experienced eye will be able to tell some obvious things immediately, such as if it's too rusty to save or if there are any problems that can't be fixed.  For example, my original 440 had one sleeved cylinder, something my inexperienced eye didn't pick up until my machinist pointed it out when I dropped off my block.  It turned out that the cylinder wall was corroded behind the sleeve, so the block was good for scrap.  They ended up selling me a core for $150.  If you haven't already mic'd it, they should also immediatly mic it just to make sure that it hasn't already been overbored to the limit.

If there isn't anything immediately apparent, they'll wash it, then mag it to check for cracks, then mic the whole thing as I mentioned before.  After that, they should contact you to let you know where you stand before beginning machine work.  At that point, they'll want some of the parts so that they can set your engine up for your specific parts - pistons, rings, rods, crank, bearings, cam bearings and freeze plugs.  In fact, you might not want to order parts until you talk to them and see what exactly you need. 

When you say you can get the work done for under $800, I'd be suspicious, though I don't know what prices are like in your area.  My block, crank work and rod reconditioning totalled out to about $1000 and I didn't have any clearancing done for a stroker.  Before doing anything, put together a list of everything you want done - several of the more experienced engine builders here on the list can help you with that.  Call around to at least three shops to get prices and don't necessarily go with the cheapest one.  If you know some people with performance experience in your area, especially racers, talk to them and ask where they got their work done and how happy they are with it.  Where possible, talk to other Mopar people (is there a club in your area?), because most shops specialize in Chevy and Ford because of the volume and not all shops know the particulars of a Mopar.  The basis of a good engine starts with good machine work.  All the best parts won't make a dime's worth of difference if the cylinders won't seal or the block leaks oil all over the place.