This can't be a normal header fitment?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

IMO, I would not attempt any new header/exhaust install without first REPLACING that K-frame. I've been down this road before with the home-grown mounting points and it makes EVERYTHING a nightmare. You could have mis-alignment issues in all directions, even front/back.

K-frames can be swapped with the motor in, you just have to suspend it with a picker while you're doing the work underneath. Of course, the front of the car will have to be on stands, too.

Steve

That's a great point.     The problem with the headers you have on there now might be the engine sits too far to the drivers side. I'm just throwing that out there. It's possible since the motor mounts on there are home made...

[Changin Gears]

I'm not by any means suggesting that you do this but this is one of the main reasons I like the stroker 400 (440 crank - 400 block).  It gives you 1/2" more clearance to  the stearing  and the shock tower.  1/2" is alot when you got none.

[brads70]

That's a great point.     The problem with the headers you have on there now might be the engine sits too far to the drivers side. I'm just throwing that out there. It's possible since the motor mounts on there are home made...

I thought of that too but they are really close on that side too the headers are smashed to clear the torsion bars on that side.

[ntstlgl1970]

That's a great point.     The problem with the headers you have on there now might be the engine sits too far to the drivers side. I'm just throwing that out there. It's possible since the motor mounts on there are home made...

I agree that you should get your K member issues sorted out first before doing anything.

[moper]

I think gravity is holding that in for the most part. replace the K frame before anything else is done. Otherwise you're simply tossing work and money into more rigging simply for the sake of speed. It's not safe with those snotty welds with no penetration.

[brads70]

I agree I'm working on a deal now !