POLL...What to Do, What to Do, What to Do...I'm Exhausted

[Bullitt-]

   Vote For 2 Please
       

Man-O-Man... Thought I would be able to salvage some of my OE exhaust & cobble together some pieces cheap to get by but as it turns out about the only parts really usable are the over the axle pipe 1-resonator & I guess the passenger head pipe .

I've studied the marketplace pretty well & still find myself in a quandary as to what will be the best BANG for the BUCK.  Would love Headers X-Pipe & Stainless, of course all these thing take $$$$$ I don't have....Looks like the preferred TTI setup would go well over 1K. The easiest way to go would be an Accurate System at about $750-shipped.  Otherwise it will have to be some combination listed above, hoping to stay under $500.

This is for a mostly stock '73 340 that may see mild performance enhancements in the future & used mainly for cruising & maybe short trips.

Any Advice or alternate ideas will be appreciated
Thanks Wade


Option 1: Cheap Header+Summit $300 
               Headman + Summit aluminized
 Option 2:  Manifold+Pypes $3-400
               Stock manifolds SME10V X-Pipe system Stainless + New head pipes               
Option 3: Cheap Header+Pypes $500
               Headman + Pypes SME10V X-Pipe system Stainless
Option 4: Mid Header+Pyes $600
             Headman Ceramic+  Pypes SME10V X-Pipe system Stainless
Option 5: Manifold+Accurate $750
              I would not mind but 2 1/4 " & aluminized steel 

[moparmaniac59]

Get a set of Doug's headers. Better then Headmen. Better or equal to Hooker and cheaper. A little more expensive than Headman, but will fit much better. You and your knuckles will be happier in the long run!!

[BB73Challenger]

I too have a similar decision to make with the Cuda -
No exhaust currently to speak of and many other things to buy too.

IMO - and it's only my opinion, I would get the better ceramic coated headers and the pypes system.

Like I said I'm not there yet but looking at the EXACT same situation... please keep us updated on what you choose and how the install & end results go!

[Super Blue 72]

I guess one question would be how you want your engine to look when you pop the hood.  Do you want a stock look or a performance look with the headers.

Then there's the question about headers vs. factory manifolds in terms of performance gains vs. maintenence as far has loose header bolts/clearance issues etc....

I might be in the same situation so this is a great topic as I'm on a tight budget too.  I would like the performance gains of the headers but keeping it all stock and since the engine hasn't been taken apart before, 30+ years old exhaust manifold bolts snapping or getting stripped doesn't sound like fun to me so I might go the manifold route with a nice sounding turbo muffler application. 

So for my own situation I think I might go Option #2 plus it may be a little cheaper.

[moper]

I went manifolds and I'd have a local shop bend up some pipes. Any pipe can be cut back and connected to exhaust later, and the local guys can do a usable job until later when there's more cash available. You also dont need the 3" and massive mufflers if you're on a tough budget.

[femtnmax]

On my 340 Duster many years ago, I ran cheap headers, original dual exhuast pipes, added my own crossover pipe, and cheap 'turbo' mufflers.  They lasted over 120,000 miles,  IE LOTS of abuse, for example:  I whiped out to pass a guy, and theres an unbroken cinder block laying right in front of me.  I thought there goes the headers.  Nudged the car over a skosh and caught the block on the K frame where the lower control arm attaches.    The cinder block exploded out from under the car!!!!    Only put a dent in the K-frame, no other damage.   Whewwwww.  But in the end many of the cheapie primary pipes were smashed at least half flat.  Still got 17 mpg on the highway.
I would use good gaskets at the cylinder head.   Remflex makes them, others brands out there also.    IF the primary pipes slip together (mine did)   they will leak all the time, either weld them solid, OR I would suggest buy mid-grade headers (dougs, hooker, etc).
Put decent free flowing mufflers, many available now.   Don't dump the exhaust down at the road ahead of the rear axle  ( I did).  The noise echos between the road and the car.  It's tolerable, but I wouldn't do it again.
I added the crossover pipe because my old 440 GTX had it from the factory.  Don't need all the stainless IMO.   None of my system was, and like I said it lasted many years of winter driving, tire chains, smashing over rocks on dirt roads, etc.
In the end I sold the car to an oil rig worker headed for Alaska.  He pounded that 340 up and down the alcan highway numerous times.   It was the only 340 Duster with a brush/deer guard on the front I've ever seen.     He beat the crap out of the car, said everywhere he went was 100 mph.  The headers were still on the car and still working last time I saw it years later.   

[73EStroker]

Go with the least expensive then change later. Like you said .... short of money so do what you can and wait until you can add more valuable products on your machine. At least that gets you going in the interim.

[The Cuda Guy]

I would stay with a cheaper header, it will do what you need it too.  Also I would go with a summint or jegs exhaust it 2.5 with some flowmasters or cherry bomb mufflers. 

Cheapest Headers With No Thru Drag Link  $346.95


http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HED%2D78056&N=700+4294925074+4294908110+4294908104+4294840100+4294918680+115&autoview=sku

2.5 Exhaust System   $176.95

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D680142&N=700+4294925074+4294908110+4294908104+4294920008+115&autoview=sku

Flowmasters  $159.90

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=FLO%2D942548&N=700+400238+4294922710+4294891681+4294791974+115&autoview=sku

Wade this is what I would go with if I was looking at buying new stuff.  There are plenty of used parts floating out there like Flowmasters and headers.... might be hard to find them with no thru drag link ect.  just wanted to throw it out here.  Here is the total:

$638.80

You could save about $200 going with summit brand headers but they are not coated and have the draglink thru the headers design.  Also if you go this route I would buy some high heat engine paint and paint your headers on top paint from the factory. 


Don

[72bluNblu]

I'm pretty sure the hedman's go under the steering link, as do all of the other "cheap" header options (like $356 is cheap  ). TTI's, Doug's, and Hooker Super Comps (5115) are the only one's I know for sure that stay above the steering link and give any kind of ground clearance. Of course the painted versions all start around $430.

I suppose it depends on how big of a money crunch you have. I'd spend money on the headers before anything else, the rest of the exhaust can be changed pretty easily down the road. I certainly wouldn't pay for ceramic coating on anything less than the TTI's, Doug's, or 5115's, since they will likely end up dented pretty quickly hanging below the steering link.

I'd get a set of Doug's or Hooker 5115's and run them with the Summit 2.5" exhaust. It's be a little over $600 with the painted/natural headers (Doug's or 5115's), a set of Doug's with ceramic coating is 580, so that'd be a bit over $750 with the Summit system. For a mild 340 the Hooker 5115's are probably overkill anyway with 1 3/4" tubes, the 1 5/8" tubes on the Doug's would be a better match anyway. And if you wanted to upgrade the pipes later it wouldn't be all that bad. The aluminized pipes should last for a decently long time without issue anyway. Headers you want to keep at the minimum # of installs!

Otherwise, if I was going to go with a cheap header I'd just buy the cheapest that fits your application. Pay attention to the application guides, a lot of the budget headers only fit certain applications, ie, only power steering, or only auto's with floor shifter etc. It will be cheap now, but if your car is any lower than stock those budget headers will be flat in no time. And again, I wouldn't spend money on ceramic coating on anything that went below the steering.

[71chally416]

You might be able to pick up some used headers somewhere and then use the JCWhitney X pipe kit for $128. They have others too

http://www.jcwhitney.com/HEARTTHROB-X-TUBE-PERFORMANCE-EXHAUST-KITS/GP_2006256_N_111+10201+600012719_10101.jcw

A little trick I've learned is the aluminized tubing tig welds like a DREAM. That way you don't have 20 clamps under the car.

[The Cuda Guy]

I'm pretty sure the hedman's go under the steering link, as do all of the other "cheap" header options

Hey bro you are correct.  I miss read the instructions last night. 

If that is the case, I would go with the summit $99.99 and save some money, just make sure you get some high heat paint and put a few coats on it. 

Thank you for bringing that to my attention.  I hate it when I do that LOL!!!     

Don

[Chryco Psycho]

Please hear this
wait another paycheck or what ever BUY A GOOD header there are only 3 small block headers that go above the steering TTI , Hooker 5115 & Dougs , if you buy Cheap you will regret it within hours , smashed tubes , burned ign wires , impossible to remove spark plugs etc  all get old fast & it doesn1t take long to burn through 2-3 sets of wires which will easily cost as much as the difference to get  good headers

[Bullitt-]

2-4-6 Trillion & before ya know it we've spent some real Money 

OK so I get it, HIGH end Headers or nothing is what it's looking like(notice that was not one of the options).....Kinda blows the whole $500. budget seeing that the lowest priced of the bunch will take most of that  . Problem is my wallet is rusted shut.

Seems to me the Pypes 2.5" Stainless X System is a no brainer at $303....I talked to a local muffler shop that caters to hot rodders  & he needs $3-400 to bend up an aluminized system.

Anyone have a recommendation as the best place to buy on Dougs Headers? 

[Chryco Psycho]

Man I know it hurts but the lesson is there ....Everytime you cut corners it costs more than doing it right will cost .
Believe me I know where you are at , I am restoring my own car after waiting 29 years , the economy is so slow I have no other work to distract me , & there is virtually nothing coming in for $$ right now but I can`t bring myself to cut the corners

[Bullitt-]

Searching around it appears that the TTi is not that much more than Dougs. Remembering that Nick is a dealer I've sent him an email inquiry but got an auto-response saying he's at the MATS.
 I'll bide my time & see what he has to offer.