Needing suspension parts and advice.

[Chlngrcrzy]

I am getting real close to installing my front and rear axles, so i will be needing to get things cleaned up and painted. However i am in need of Torsion bars, what size should i put in there? I will probably have a small block, however i won't rule out putting a 440 in there later. Also all my front end rubber parts will have to be replaced, any good places (inexpensive) where i can order a kit ?
  Okay , now i need some real help. I want to paint the rear and front axle metal, what kind of paint can i use to get a nice shiny, but tough surface? What do you use for getting it to look a smooth again? Thick primer or ? rear axle looks like someone drove a gravel road for years. Springs look terrible. Any ideas?

[bb71challenger]

I had a 340 in my Challenger but got the torsion bars that were bigger than the stock hemi bars. It did not ride too rough imo and now that I have a big block in there I am glad I went larger than factory big block. If you ever plan to put a big block in then I would suggest getting some meaty bars in there. Dont forget to order the end boots and clips while you are at it.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would use at least .96 diameter T bars
I have used eastwood Chassis black for most suspension parts , it is an Epoxy paint & holds up well

[Chlngrcrzy]

 :ylsuper:Grooovy. Thanks guys.

[73EStroker]

Think about this though .......... ever see a hardtail Harley go around a bumpy corner?? That is the same as what stiff springs with crappy shocks will do to you. Lets face it - our roads are crappy at the best of times (in Canada anyway) I am using a big block with stock 0.92 bars and am going to spend big bucks on shocks to control the wheel and suspension movement. That is a better solution for normal and slightly competitive driving than having stiff suspension and cheap shocks.Mind you my B block has alum heads, alum intake, alum rad, alum water pump and housing so it most likely near the weight of a stock LA engine. I want my wheels to go up and down over bumps in hard corners. Good handling is all about keeping the rubber on the road. Tires do not grip too well when they are in the air. Food for thought.

[bb71challenger]

I hear what you are saying but I dont know many people who would spend decent bucks on upgrading their torsion bars and then run crappy shocks. Granted, I am running low cost KYB's but I have not had them long enough to even make a decent evaluation of them. If they do not control the suspension travel to my liking I will get different ones. As a comparison to what you are saying, even the best shocks in the world can do little to control a car with weak springs. I would say your .92's are hardly weak though.

[72bluNblu]

For a driver I would recommend .96 or 1" bars, unless you really want it to handle and then I might go as high as 1.06" for a big block, depending on how you like your cars to ride (plush vs. stiff) and what your plans are for the car (street cruising vs. corner carving). Larger than that though will cause problems with your ride height.

I currently run 1.12" torsion bars in my 318 Challenger. I like the ride, its definitely stiff, but not punishing. I do drive my car as a daily driver too. But I also still have KYB shocks and large profile tires, better shocks and smaller sidewalls will stiffen things up more when I get around to it. Also, I had to run Magnumforce's 2" drop spindles to get the ride height of my car below stock, I maxed out the adjustors on the torsion bars to get it to stock ride height otherwise. But I'm looking at doing some road track time with my car at some point, I wouldn't go that big on a car meant only to be a street cruiser.

I would say the the 1" bars would give good handling and a good ride as well, and you wouldn't have to worry about ride height issues. That and a good set of shocks and sway bars and it would handle pretty well, even with a big block.

[DMZ73]

"Also all my front end rubber parts will have to be replaced, any good places (inexpensive) where i can order a kit ? "
 

I am coming to the same cross road. I see the Polygraphite performance suspension in MOpar magazine all the time.
Can anyone speak to the Polygraphite vs the rubber?

Not to hijack the thread, but what are the correct finishes for the suspension  components?
My 73 Challenger K frame ass'y was painted orange - apparently early in life...

Dan

[72bluNblu]

I like the polygraphite bushings, that's what I have everywhere I can replace bushings. Its definitely stiffer, you get less play in the suspension and it also makes your inputs a lot more accurate. But it can be a little harsher, you feel more of the little bumps. Poly bushings do have a tendency to squeak though, so everywhere you can add grease fittings do it, that way when it starts to squeak you can add more grease. The A-arms I got from CAP came with them, then I supplemented the rest with Energy Suspension components, which Summit sells.

Some guys don't like them, mostly because of the squeaking, and rubber is more compliant, so rubber bushings are easier to install too. But if you address the squeaking with more grease fittings (FFI sells greaseable LCA pins) its not really an issue. And I value the accuracy in my suspension more than a few squeaks.

There was just a thread on here somewhere on the correct finish for suspension stuff, I'd check there. Most of the stuff, like the LCA's and strut rods, were just bare metal with a coating of oil/grease.

[72bluNblu]

Here's the finish info, the whole thread is here http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=58257.0

Ok, nearing the end of our resto or at least in the final stretch, we have come across to our front suspension.  Yes, that lovely multitude of moving parts that someone has painted the generic semi flat black.  Now since our 70 chally vert is going back to factory specs and appearance, I need some help with a list of what should be what color.  The car is a manual drum brake car with power steering if it matters.

This is the list of what I think the colors should be:

Spindles -  natural cast iron
steering knuckles/lower ball joint - heat treated cast iron
upper ball joint - natural steel
backing plate for brakes - semi flat black
strut rods - natural steel
lower control arm - natural steel coated in cosmoline
upper control arm - natural steel but have also heard could be semi flat black
tie rods - cast iron
adjuster sleeve - semi flat black
center link - heat treated cast iron
pitman arm - heat treated cast iron
idler arm - heat treated cast iron

Also, what color should all of the nuts and bolts be for these?  I know the nuts for the tie rods and ball joints should have been the tri-castle nut design.

Thanks in advane,

Brian