Author Topic: Insulation and sound deadening  (Read 3267 times)

Offline txchallenger

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Insulation and sound deadening
« on: June 01, 2009 - 04:33:34 PM »
What are you guys and or gals doing as far as insulating and sound deadening the interior?
I found this paint
http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=HyTech&product=Specialty+Coatings&cart_id=9783842.25105&user-id=&password=&exchange=&exact_match=exact
I bought the 1 gal. of the SC#1000.
Anyone use this? Its suppose to be  like Lizardskin but alot less expensive.
It is a laytex based paint so I have epoxy primed and acrylic polyurethaned the floor panels before using this product. I wasn't wanting to put it on unprimed metal since it is a laytex.
It has taken the "tink sound" out of the metal when you tap on the underside and it's more of a thud now.
It is very thick , wont drip off the brush and will hang vertical.
I plan on using dynamat on top of this.....
Wanting to have it so the wife and I can converse while riding and also make it so the interior temp stays comfortable
Any thoughts ??




Offline 73EStroker

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2009 - 08:40:48 PM »
I used a product called B-Quiet from a comany in Alberta, Canada. It is sticky tar like stuff with a silver foil lining. It is placed beneath the headliner and completely covers the floors right back to the trunk. also the inside of the doors will get the treatment. This stuff sticks like $$hit to a blanket and is good for 135 deg C which is way over 200 deg F. You may just want to go with Dynamat and forget the paint on stuff. A friend did his 64 Vette with B-Quiet and now he can use the radio and talk to his wife while driving. Car is also cooler in summer.
Barry (Salmon Arm)

Offline sprecks

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2009 - 08:59:33 PM »
I used the B-Quiet stuff also. It was very easy to work with. If you want to see what it looks like I have pictures posted of my car on my restoration thread. I think it is page 4 of my thread.
you can call me Jay
I've seen sicker dogs get well.

1971 Challenger Vert - 472 Hemi EFI
1969 Road Runner 440/Auto
2017 Ram Laramie 1500 - Hemi

Offline leithal

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2009 - 10:13:06 PM »
I sprayed both sides of the undercarriage of my 66 fastback stang with a product called Second Skin Audio along with a foil backed padding.  The combination of the two did an amazing job of keeping the interior quieter and cooler.  I will be doing the same thing with my Cuda project.

Offline bb71challenger

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2009 - 11:51:00 PM »
On my neon I used something called brown bread which was pretty good stuff. It was the basic asphalt/foil backed stuff you see everywhere under different names. I will probably do my challenger in 2 stages like leithal stated. Painted undercoating to give a good base to adhere to and to offer a small additional amount of sound deadening and then any good quality asphalt based foil backed deadener. Take your pick, some are better than others but they all do what you need them to. The biggest thing to look for is the melting temp of the asphalt, in my climate some of the cheaper ones tend to melt and bleed out a little bit in the 110+ summer heat. If I had the green I would do dynamat xtreme on the whole inside of the car, doors and trunk. I know its probably a couple of hundred extra pounds but I want give my soundstage the best possible chance to put chills down my spine  :ylsuper:
1971 Challenger (OO==== ====OO) getting close!
1970 Challenger (OO########OO) long ways off
*Brett*

Offline Devil

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #5 on: June 02, 2009 - 04:00:28 PM »
The best stuff around is the buetyl (sp?) based.  The asphalt/foil will melt in a hot car, or when the floor gets hot and cause a mess.  I have some other stuff that came in a roll, butyl based and works well in my car.



Ryan
Ryan's Cars in Barns

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71 Challenger R/T Clone
69 Charger R/T SE
70 Barracuda
74 Dart Swinger
93 RamCharger
88 Caprice Classic Brougham

Offline dutch

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #6 on: June 02, 2009 - 04:36:36 PM »
so, how about prices...?    what do the different products cost and how much do you need to get an e-body cool and silent?
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Offline bb71challenger

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #7 on: June 02, 2009 - 06:50:34 PM »
Prices vary but the way I am going to do my car is solid sheets wherever I think it needs it. The whole floor pan will get it, at least the trunk floor and sides and inside the quarter windows and doors. I dont think I am going to put any on the roof but will study the potential benfits and will not rule it out. To do it right costs a pretty penny but the sonic benefit alone imo is well worth it.
1971 Challenger (OO==== ====OO) getting close!
1970 Challenger (OO########OO) long ways off
*Brett*

Offline HemiOrange70

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #8 on: June 02, 2009 - 07:03:06 PM »
I used fat mat from ebay.....I compared all (fatmat, lizard skin) and this was a good buy. Two rolls were more than enough to do the floor and doors. Do not do the roof, use underlay. Mopar mag did a comparison and all the butyl based were pretty much the same.

Offline 73EStroker

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #9 on: June 02, 2009 - 09:39:05 PM »
My B-Quiet cost about $220US. I consulted the manufacturer about doing under the headliner and he told me many cars have it in there with no problem.
Barry (Salmon Arm)

Offline Morris'_Mopars

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #10 on: June 02, 2009 - 11:42:27 PM »
I bought some fatmat off of Ebay for a decent price. Comes in different tickness also.
Morris' Mopars LLC
Raymond, Illinois
Mopar performance at affordable prices.

Offline txchallenger

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #11 on: June 03, 2009 - 11:37:08 PM »
Ok...... here is what I have done so far
sandblasted floorboard and removed all sealer
treated with phosphate acid(rust preventive) epoxy primed and painted with acrylic polyurathane paint.
applied three coats of the sc1000 let dry for 2 hrs between coats then for 12 hrs (overnight), painted another coat of acrylic polyurathane over the sc1000.
Forgot to mention I resealed the seams after the epoxy coat
This pic is of the trunck
« Last Edit: June 04, 2009 - 09:15:18 AM by txchallenger »

Offline txchallenger

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Re: Insulation and sound deadening
« Reply #12 on: June 03, 2009 - 11:38:52 PM »
this is after top coat
« Last Edit: June 04, 2009 - 09:07:05 AM by txchallenger »