Pinion seal replacement (?)

[crcarch]

Sorry to drag this out, but I've finally had a chance to get back to it.

I've pulled the yoke back off and lubed everything up with anit-sieze compound as recommended.  I've torqued it back down to 170 ft. lbs. (which got rid of the play) and will continue to torque it until the drag matches spec. One question after reading your comments and tactransman's direction sheet:  Since it's the old bearing, should it be 10-15 inch lbs. total or should that be added to the 20-30 in. lbs. new bearing figure for a 30-45 in. lb. total drag? (Read tactransman's instructions - Pinion Bearing preload (large stem) - Paragraph

[quagmire]

Hmm.  In order to set it the preload for used bearings you would have had to measure the turning torque before disassembly, then add that 10-15 inch pounds to that.  How many miles are on them?  If it is really low, like it hasnt even been broken in yet, I'd set it to the low side of the new bearing spec.  It's really hard to say if it will be okay, it wil depend on if the bearings have finished being run in or not.  The reason you put a preload on the new bearings is because after the break in period, that preload will loosen up to become zero clearance if it was setup properly.  If it was set too loose, the bearings hammer themselves apart.  Too tight and they burn up, that's why it is so critical to set it up properly.  Maybe someone on here with a good used rear end apart can tell you their turning torque.  You might just be better off using new bearings though. 

[crcarch]

Okay, I understand now.  Thanks,

I have no idea how old the bearings are.  They either were changed when I put in the posi 4000 miles ago or they are original with about 150,000.  It's been over 17 years ago, so I don't remember.  Problem is, I can't even torque it enough to get the 20# preload.  I've torqued it to 170#, which is as high as my wrench will read and continued on with a breaker bar. The instructions tactransman listed actually say 210# for 1973 and later.  Since this is a 73 car, I'm assuming that is the correct min. torque.  Unfortunately I can't seem to get it any tighter, since I either lift myself or the rear-end off the ground. There's no longer any play (in and out) but it still spins with little resistance.  I gather from what you're saying that not loaded enough is almost as bad as overloading.  Guess I'll have to figure out a way to get more torque into it.

[quagmire]

Yes, a very long pipe and a yoke holding tool will be your best friends!

[crcarch]

Took advantage of the long weekend to get some work done.  The yoke's been tightened until it has at least 25 inch/pounds to turn.  Two things concern me.  First, it isn't smooth resistance.  It takes a little additional force to start turning, then it "drags" at the recommended resistance.  Second, it has a definite "clank" when you twist the yoke back-and-forth by hand.  Is this normal? It doesn't yet have the oil installed or the axles and I haven't yet put it back under the car.  Any advice would be appreciated.

[moper]

The 489 uses a crush sleeve unles you replaced it with a solid spacer. So the crush sleeve is what you need to compress with that 240 pound feet. And yes, the best way to get it back right is truning torque of the entire center section. Not just the pinion and bearings.New bearings (not run previously at all) should land around 20-25 pounds turnign torque. BTW, that is not the same as 25lbs on your torque wrench. You need the turning force torque wrench if you dont have one. Once you have the pinion bearings properly preloaded, go back and check your back lash setting. On a used set of gears, that should be around .010-.013. That's where the clunk is coming from. Too much back lash.

[Bullitt-]

Have I screwed UP?.....    Well used 489, marked my pinion nut position, was going to use my "click" torque wrench to see how many pounds it took to loosen the nut so I began with it set to 100-lbs....Nut came loose with hardly any effort, I'd say no more than 40-lbs.   Replaced the seal, cleaned & lubed everything then re-assembled, did have to smack the yoke slightly to expose threads.  Tightened till just before mark but nut was very loose, continued till some resistance was felt, my mark is at about 30-degrees past.  Pinion is not loose, spins with little effort & has no clunk.... Am I good to go or should this all be re-done as described above?   

[Changin Gears]

Have I screwed UP?.....    Well used 489, marked my pinion nut position, was going to use my "click" torque wrench to see how many pounds it took to loosen the nut so I began with it set to 100-lbs....Nut came loose with hardly any effort, I'd say no more than 40-lbs.   Replaced the seal, cleaned & lubed everything then re-assembled, did have to smack the yoke slightly to expose threads.  Tightened till just before mark but nut was very loose, continued till some resistance was felt, my mark is at about 30-degrees past.  Pinion is not loose, spins with little effort & has no clunk.... Am I good to go or should this all be re-done as described above?

You are probably go to go, but if you are worried, back it off, put on some Loctite and torque to 170.  Tapping on the yoke would have no effect on the crush sleave, it would just seperate the pinion bearings.  Torquing it would drive them back home.

[Changin Gears]

Took advantage of the long weekend to get some work done.  The yoke's been tightened until it has at least 25 inch/pounds to turn.  Two things concern me.  First, it isn't smooth resistance.  It takes a little additional force to start turning, then it "drags" at the recommended resistance.  Second, it has a definite "clank" when you twist the yoke back-and-forth by hand.  Is this normal? It doesn't yet have the oil installed or the axles and I haven't yet put it back under the car.  Any advice would be appreciated.

You always need some additional 'break away' torque to get things moving.

[Bullitt-]

You are probably go to go, but if you are worried, back it off, put on some Loctite and torque to 170.  Tapping on the yoke would have no effect on the crush sleave, it would just seperate the pinion bearings.  Torquing it would drive them back home.

Thanks... Think I'll get some Loctite