***Sealant between Panels?***

[Bullitt-]

   Putting a patch panel on the rear quarter where it meets the trunk extension at the wheel arch there was deffinatly some sealant introduced prior to the factory welds.. This is apparently NOT the white seam sealer used in the trunk as it is very hard. 
    I'm not trying to make this concourse correct but would like to have a water tight seal & do not see any way to get a sealant in after welding these pieces together....
   Any ideas? 

Thanks
Wade 

[426HEMI]

Hey Wade I am thinking it was either white or grey.  I think and am pretty positive that they put the sealant on the used a spot wielder to fasten them  together.  The reason I say that is the sealant was always pushed out at the seams.  Not sure if this helps or not.  I have been wondering how I was going to do it also.  Gordon

[Bullitt-]

Yea it's probably gray...Just had a thought..I could use that newfangled panel adhesive & forgo the welding...

[Topcat]

..I could use that newfangled panel adhesive & forgo the welding...

Wade, if I had to ever do it again, that's what I would of done on the wheelwell lip.

[mopardave]

use painteable seam sealer, or get the panel bonder. big difference is that the panel bonder you can sand, it dorsn't crack or shrink and is water proof. You also can leave it sloppy like the seam sealer for that special look.  We have used the panel bonder on the cudas we have done and it is awesome product, but we welded also.

[Bullitt-]

Cough cough shudder.... That panel bond @ $40 par 6oz made be pause for a moment.... So I stopped by my buddies bushiness, Andy's RV Repair on I65, told him what I was up to so he hands be a couple of packages of Aluminum Epoxy repair.   He uses it to save aluminum refrigerant coils so we know it's strong but will it bond two flat pieces of metal together
   Experiment #1 was a failure, I put just enough on one side to cover it then clamped another to it both had been sanded clean.   The next day they were separated fairly easily & I noticed most of the epoxy stayed on the side I applied it to.
   Exp. #2 Sanded down wiped with acetone applied a bit more generous amount to both sides clamped together then heated with a hair drier (little trick I've learned on regular epoxy) Next day they are stuck but good.... so I've found my not so costly approach.
  This stuff is thick enough not to run but thin enough to squish out from pressure to allow the pieces to conform to each other.   Best of all it's $40 I wont have to spend.

Thanks Guys for putting me on the right track

[Moparal]

wade   you get that 4 spd for your car?  That's good news about you being able to have that strong of a bond with your car    And like a cheap date too

[Bullitt-]

No on the 4-Speed + 340.   I talked to the guy & he had turned down $1700 already, wanted more like 2K and that's without the shifter. I don't know where he had been shopping but somewhere folks are getting this kind of money. I wished him luck & told him about C-C.com but I it doesn't look like he's joined... He's wanting to go big block with the heavy splined tranny.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I'm gonna need to do some seam sealing myself (and plan using some POR 15 also) I was on NAPA (online) they got 3 pages of the stuff... 

[Bullitt-]

I hear ya Bigs...one for every day of the week & 2 for Sunday..
I'm thinking just for seam sealing a basic product like this in a caulk gun will do it for me
http://www.levineautoparts.com/3mfasnfirsea.html

Whatever the white stuff the factory used has held up well on my car where it was not otherwise compromised ..

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I gotta say the stuff used on the floor in the interior, is totally different than the stuff used on the trunk floor.  The floor here looks like it was applied with a caulking gun. The stuff in the trunk looks brushed on. 

[Bullitt-]

Yea the floor seams were good ole roofing tar available at the hardware store for about $3.