what type

[sleepychallenger]

what kind of primer to you guys use?

[TROUBLE71]

You doing bare metal or over body work?

[sleepychallenger]

i think i am going to strip it to bare metal.

[TROUBLE71]

well if its a part then just get some etching primer first,then any good 2k primer over it..if its a whole car then i would epoxy it..

[sleepychallenger]

it will be the whole car. so i guess i will go with epoxy primer

[TROUBLE71]

oh ok yeah,thats the only way to go then..get some bare metal cleaner to prep it with and do not touch it after you wipe it down,any oil from your skin will get under the epoxy and fish eye and cause problems down the road..follow the directions to a T..and any rust spots sand blast them good and you shouldnt have nothing to worry about for at least 10-15 years i got cars with 11 year old paint jobs that still look like the day i painted them...epoxy..and let cure and do your body work and use a good 2k primer...and thats it...

[sleepychallenger]

thanks. the paint job i have now was done in 99 and it is really bugging me. the clear is peeling off the front fenders and there are rust bubbles popping up from under the vynal top and on the front fender and rear 1/4. it is definately time.

[TROUBLE71]

well alot times when clear peels its because they cut on the clear in that area to much during wet sanding and buffing..or there was never enough clear put on them when it was painted..

[sleepychallenger]

that is what i thought happened. wish it didnt, then i might be able to live with it, but it is getting worse every day. i was thinking of taking the fenders off, using aircraft paint stripper, then spraying primer, then doing the same with the doors and valance panels. then blasting the roof because that is the last part that has clearcoat on it. then i was going to take a good week or two off of work just to block sand and paint.

[TROUBLE71]

you dont really have to strip it all the way down though...just get a da and sand it down untill it feathers out and fix your rust spots and prime it..but make sure it feathers out cause if it dont..it will screw it up and peel later..but if you got the time then i would strip it so you know what you got...ill get back with ya on the shifter parts too im going to try and call this guy today..

[sleepychallenger]

Copy, thanks. it may take some time, but i think stripping the majority of the car would be best for me to make sure that i get everything that i can.

[torredcuda]

well alot times when clear peels its because they cut on the clear in that area to much during wet sanding and buffing..or there was never enough clear put on them when it was painted..

I`ve never seen or heard of clear peeling b/c it was cut too thin?It is a problem with the clear adhering to the base coat so it is best to strip it all off to prevent more problems later on with the new paint job.

[TROUBLE71]

I have too many times...if its thin it will start to pop and flake off,also if the base isnt gave enough time to dry it will trap solvents under the clear,due to the top coat curing before the bottom,and when that happens it looses it grip...if the whole cars clear is peeling then its my guess its this,but if is a panel here and there then im saying they cut on the panels too long..thats all   

[torredcuda]

Not saying it couldn`t happen-just never heard of it before.Solvent pop usually starts as little tiny bubbles which can them lead to peeling.

[sleepychallenger]

i just have two big areas on the top of the two front fenders that it is happening to. it started by looking really faded in that area, then the clear started peeling off. now the paint under there looks really dull. I am thinking that i am going to do a single stage paint when i re do it.