Author Topic: Shortening the Crush Can  (Read 2488 times)

Offline 73EStroker

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Shortening the Crush Can
« on: August 11, 2009 - 02:27:14 PM »
Just wondering about being able to shorten the crush can to move the steering wheel away from the driver. I am somewhat vertically challenged so the seat is set forward to get good feel on the pedals and that makes the steering wheel too close to my body. Anyone attempted this before? I am talking less than 1" which would make a big difference if it can be done.
Barry (Salmon Arm)




Offline tommyg29

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2009 - 02:58:16 PM »
I just bought a used can from stroker 2 weeks ago for the same reason. I missed out on a "professionally" shortened can a few weeks ago on ebay that ended up going for about $65. It had been shortened from 5" to about 2.5".

I cut 2" out of mine because I determined that any shorter and my fingers might hit the dash pad, but I forgot about the signal lever, so I'm gonna have to bend the lever back somehow. It almost hits my rimblow wheel at about the 8:30 position.
Anyways, I cut the 2" out myself with a 10" metal cutting circular saw blade on my miter saw. You have to plan your cuts carefully, allowing for good contact all around for welding the two pieces together. Then after laying a solid bead all around you have to grind, and then fill the low spots with primer, sand, sand, primer, trim paint etc. It took me about 4 or 5 hours of work probably all told. Maybe more, but who's counting when you do this stuff for fun, right?
It looks great, and my arms fit much better.
If you're up to it, or if you have someone do it, make sure it is welded properly. It is afterall designed to protect your chest in an accident, and cutting anything off will theoretically give you less protection, and it may not even crush at all, period. Last thing you want is it easily breaking off and the base going into your chest!

Now, after all that, I also understand that you might be able to use a b-body can, or even a tuff wheel adapter, both of which may be shorter than e-body cans. Check ebay. :blah:
72 Roadrunner 400-4 Auto-3.23 Gear-Black Cruiser
71 Cuda 440-6 Tribute-Limelight-A833 Close Ratio-4 Sp-Pistol Grip-Dana 3.54 Powr Lok-Rally Dash-Shaker (Sold)
92 Dodge Stealth RT-Twin 15g Turbos-SAFC2 Tuned-Mystic Blue-5 Sp-AWD-Rear Wheel Steering-AutoX'r (Sold)
12 Dodge Charger SXT Plus Blacktop Package-3.6L-8 Sp-Leather-Nav (the wife's)

Multiple SRT's, Rams, Dakotas, Caravans and Neons

...the lines on the road just look like dots!....

Offline tommyg29

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #2 on: August 11, 2009 - 03:04:41 PM »
btw, heres my can
72 Roadrunner 400-4 Auto-3.23 Gear-Black Cruiser
71 Cuda 440-6 Tribute-Limelight-A833 Close Ratio-4 Sp-Pistol Grip-Dana 3.54 Powr Lok-Rally Dash-Shaker (Sold)
92 Dodge Stealth RT-Twin 15g Turbos-SAFC2 Tuned-Mystic Blue-5 Sp-AWD-Rear Wheel Steering-AutoX'r (Sold)
12 Dodge Charger SXT Plus Blacktop Package-3.6L-8 Sp-Leather-Nav (the wife's)

Multiple SRT's, Rams, Dakotas, Caravans and Neons

...the lines on the road just look like dots!....

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #3 on: August 12, 2009 - 02:41:43 AM »
so now you need an even smaller diameter wheel  :banghead:

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline tommyg29

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #4 on: August 12, 2009 - 07:55:22 AM »
Last night I fixed my signal lever issue. Pulled the wheel and can, removed the lever and carefully bent it back about 2". Looks good.
I dont care what anyone else says :naughty: these cars are easy to work on.
72 Roadrunner 400-4 Auto-3.23 Gear-Black Cruiser
71 Cuda 440-6 Tribute-Limelight-A833 Close Ratio-4 Sp-Pistol Grip-Dana 3.54 Powr Lok-Rally Dash-Shaker (Sold)
92 Dodge Stealth RT-Twin 15g Turbos-SAFC2 Tuned-Mystic Blue-5 Sp-AWD-Rear Wheel Steering-AutoX'r (Sold)
12 Dodge Charger SXT Plus Blacktop Package-3.6L-8 Sp-Leather-Nav (the wife's)

Multiple SRT's, Rams, Dakotas, Caravans and Neons

...the lines on the road just look like dots!....

Offline gkring

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #5 on: August 12, 2009 - 11:00:53 PM »
isn't the b body can a little shorter and pretty close to a drop in deal? If you have a grant wheel they have their own extender as well. Using no spacer will make your fingers hit the dash.
Greg
1970 Challenger convertible-in process
1970 Barracuda driver

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #6 on: August 13, 2009 - 12:22:50 AM »
the B body can is a drop in

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline tommyg29

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #7 on: August 13, 2009 - 08:17:13 AM »
I may be wrong, but I think I've seen a couple pictures of the b- body can and they dont have the accordion look.
72 Roadrunner 400-4 Auto-3.23 Gear-Black Cruiser
71 Cuda 440-6 Tribute-Limelight-A833 Close Ratio-4 Sp-Pistol Grip-Dana 3.54 Powr Lok-Rally Dash-Shaker (Sold)
92 Dodge Stealth RT-Twin 15g Turbos-SAFC2 Tuned-Mystic Blue-5 Sp-AWD-Rear Wheel Steering-AutoX'r (Sold)
12 Dodge Charger SXT Plus Blacktop Package-3.6L-8 Sp-Leather-Nav (the wife's)

Multiple SRT's, Rams, Dakotas, Caravans and Neons

...the lines on the road just look like dots!....

Offline Purple73Cuda

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2009 - 12:40:47 PM »
What year(s) and models of b bodies used the steering wheel "can"?
John
'73 Cuda 340
'70 RR 440+6
'66 Charger 383

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2009 - 11:48:06 PM »
any B body with the Tuff wheel or Rim blow wheel uses the adapter & yes it is smooth not accordioned

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline loco440

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2009 - 07:17:10 AM »
I made my steering move down one inch by taking the hole column out and starting at the shoe pin,I put the hole column in a vice and clocked the pin in the 12 to 6 position and belted the shoe pin out and measured EXACTLY one inch from the center of the pin hole then pin punched a mark on the shaft and drilled a new hole in the 12 to 6 position (this has to be exact so the wheel is not cocked)to a friction fit for refitting the pin,then wacked in the pin into the new hole,I then measured from the new pin and cut off the corrosponding amount off the end of the shaft(that means the same length from the old pin to the end as the new pin to the end)then I moved up to the firewall/column plate,I ground down the two bumps on the column tube and slid the plate up the column one inch,then went to work on the column support bracket,I moved the support bracket up one inch towards the steering wheel and drilled two new holes,then you weld two ears on to the support bracket and drill so you can bolt the bracket to the column with four of the original bolts and paint black,this took about three hours and looks factory and drives even better with the wheel closer to the dash by one inch,Hemi Dude on this site did it to and likes it.

Offline 73EStroker

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Re: Shortening the Crush Can
« Reply #11 on: August 16, 2009 - 11:17:59 AM »
Yes I was thinking of going just 1" as well. Will make a big difference. I think the crush can shortened is the best route for me but loco440 you did it the proper way for the stock look IMO.
Barry (Salmon Arm)